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  1. #21
    MDR
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    Meanwhile some links that might interest someone on polymerization and reaction to light

    Photopolymerization under visible light
    ftp://wilbur.eng.auburn.edu/pub/bzs0...0reactions.pdf

    Imaging on a Vapor Deposited Film by Photopolymerization of a Rod-Like
    Molecule Consisting of Two Diacetylenic Groups
    http://www.cheric.org/PDF/MMR/MR10/MR10-4-0204.pdf

    Dye Sensitized photopolymerisation (on Google Docs)

    Dominik
    Last edited by MDR; 01-17-2012 at 12:51 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  2. #22
    keithwms's Avatar
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    I have done quite a bit of photopolymerization (of C60) but nothing in this photographic context. Interesting stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by DWThomas View Post
    The idea of something homegrown sounds interesting, especially if there was a way to somehow introduce a porosity proportional to exposure that could produce a more analog result.

    DaveT
    Hmm. Well what about deliberately using something that makes short chains and such. E.g. it could be that the monomer is deliberately not monodisperse.... or you use a molecule with a lot of orientational disorder that doesn't always polymerize. Then the polymerization is sort of statistical and inherently imperfect and I guess you will indeed get pores and areas that are more or less polymerized. C60 does this on mica or silicon, if I remember correctly. You get short range, mostly 2D crosslinks and then those are insoluble in toluene.
    Last edited by keithwms; 01-17-2012 at 12:52 PM. Click to view previous post history.
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  3. #23
    Ole
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    Does anyone remember newspapers? The old paper kind, in the age before computerised layout and direct output.

    That's how they were printed, and how photographs were prepared for printing (through a half-tone raster screen).

    And since noone does it that way now, there are thousands of top class repro lenses being snapped up by the LF community for next to nothing.
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  4. #24

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    Fail to see the connection with OP, but do you have a link to those top class lenses for "next to nothing" I'm looking for a good outfit for my Plaubel Makiflex......
    (and I'm pondering upon how to get this photopolymer stuff onto glass plates, to utilize this as photo plates in the 4x5 glass negative carrier in said camera..................... ISO 1 - 8 maybe?)

  5. #25
    keithwms's Avatar
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    Spin coating will give very controllable thickness. But I kinda doubt that you really want to expose this in camera. I think you'll want to try it under an enlarger first. The exposures may be unreasonable for in-camera work. At least the photopoly I have played with needs quite a lot of UV to induce the crosslinking. Normal light coming through your lens probably won't work well. Unless you have some really clever catalyst.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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  6. #26

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    As Iunderstand the "film" doers not and should not dry out, apparently this happens in fluid state.

  7. #27
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    Well, that's okay, you can probably maintain enough humidity or you can use a solvent that doesn't evaporate very quickly. Simply storing a plate in a cool box with some water in it will keep it wet indefinitely.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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  8. #28
    Ole
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    Quote Originally Posted by analog what is that? View Post
    Fail to see the connection with OP, but do you have a link to those top class lenses for "next to nothing" I'm looking for a good outfit for my Plaubel Makiflex......
    (and I'm pondering upon how to get this photopolymer stuff onto glass plates, to utilize this as photo plates in the 4x5 glass negative carrier in said camera..................... ISO 1 - 8 maybe?)
    Maybe I used the wrong tense of the verb, I should have said were snapped up.

    The G-Claron, APO-Artar, Germinar, and many many other popular lenses were originally made for phototypesetting and repro photography. By now those lenses that weren't snapped up in time have all ended up in landfills. Lens mining, anyone?

    Some Holography plates use photopolymers. Check with www.slavich.ru ?
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by keithwms View Post
    Well, that's okay, you can probably maintain enough humidity or you can use a solvent that doesn't evaporate very quickly. Simply storing a plate in a cool box with some water in it will keep it wet indefinitely.
    I don't think there is any water in the mix-

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by analog what is that? View Post
    I don't think there is any water in the mix-
    Whatever solvent you desire, I am fairly certain it can be kept from drying or a reasonable period. Unless it is especially volatile.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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