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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by analog what is that? View Post
    You are not afrait of work, my friend.............
    It has to be tested. The proof is in the pudding...

  2. #12

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    Made a quick test with ferricyanide.
    Farmers reducer solutuion A 5ml in 150ml water.
    I took a film-strip that was exposed to daylight and loaded the tank.
    Poured in the reducer and let it sit for 5 minutes.
    Poured out the reducer and filled water and poured it out again.
    Repeated 10 times.
    Poured in developer and developed for 5 minutes.
    stop, fix and rinse as usual.

    The result is a filmstrip with about half the width blank and the other black.

    Potassium ferricyanide does destroy the latent image.
    I suppose that PE is right and that potassium permanganate will do the same. :-(
    It still has to be tested, but I dont expect the result I want.

    Well, I have to make positives from the film then.

  3. #13
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    You're doing what??? To some perfectly innocent slide film???!

    Well, I hope you will show the results.
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

    [APUG Portfolio] [APUG Blog] [Website]

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by keithwms View Post
    You're doing what??? To some perfectly innocent slide film???!

    Well, I hope you will show the results.
    E-6 processing is costly and I have to send the films away to get them processed in the E-6 process.
    E-6 film is cheaply available. Cheaper than B&W film.

    Shooting them as B&W and making b&w slides is something I can handle in my home.
    The problem with developing them as b&w negatives is that dense color filter made of collodial silver. If I can get rid of that, it's great, but if that isn't possible, I have to develop, bleach, clear, re-expose end develop again to get a positive.
    The bleach step will remove the color mask, but it also removes the image. The result after bleaching is the undeveloped silver still present in the film.
    Exposing that and developing it gives a positive image.
    Not suitable for the darkroom, but perfectly scannable.

  5. #15
    keithwms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tronds View Post
    E-6 processing is costly and I have to send the films away to get them processed in the E-6 process.
    E-6 film is cheaply available. Cheaper than B&W film.
    What about the scala / dr5 process....

    May the six gods whose names all start with E have mercy on your soul...
    "Only dead fish follow the stream"

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  6. #16

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    Link to that process Keith?
    Make a careful note a link to something only avauilable to the lower 48 states, or some of the southern states is a non-starter, it has to be sendable and trransferable across the entire planet!

  7. #17

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    hi tronds

    i process e6 film sometimes in caffenol c with a small bit of paper developer added in.
    the developer is sort of low contrast, and slow working and my e6 doesn't come out too dense.
    i have recently heard of people bleaching out the dye layer ( ? ) using soda ash
    ( sorry i don't know the dilution ) i have also heard of people using dilute household bleach
    diluted down another 1:10 ...
    i have never used these methods myself, but it seems others have and it worked out ...

    good luck !
    john

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by jnanian View Post
    hi tronds

    i process e6 film sometimes in caffenol c with a small bit of paper developer added in.
    the developer is sort of low contrast, and slow working and my e6 doesn't come out too dense.
    i have recently heard of people bleaching out the dye layer ( ? ) using soda ash
    ( sorry i don't know the dilution ) i have also heard of people using dilute household bleach
    diluted down another 1:10 ...
    i have never used these methods myself, but it seems others have and it worked out ...

    good luck !
    john
    Household bleach destroys the emulsjon. I have tried that and it doesn't work. It takes on unevenly and dissolves the emulson.
    Soda ash doesn't bleach silver. Besides that it is often used as alkali in developers.

    Developing the film is no problem, but the film is way to dense to print and too dense to scan with optimum results.

    Farmers reduser removes the color filter, but it also removes part of the image. :-(

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by keithwms View Post
    What about the scala / dr5 process....

    May the six gods whose names all start with E have mercy on your soul...
    It is better to use the film for b&w than just throwing it in the bin.

  10. #20

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    i just found the washing soda thread
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/1...lletproof.html

    i guess it was the rem jet that it removed, not the dye layer ...

    sorry to hear that about household bleach
    a fellow caffenol-c'er who (used to? ) process his color film
    in b/w chemistry said it worked great for him ...

    i guess one man's trash is another's treasure ...

    john

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