Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,956   Posts: 1,586,030   Online: 762
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20
  1. #1
    djklmnop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    230
    Images
    9

    Share your Tips, Tricks, Precautions, etc.

    I figure everyone has their own shortcut or ways of doing certain things. Share some of your ideas here. I'm sure as simple as it may seem to one, it can help greatly to others. Also share your DO-NOT-DO as well. I'm sure some people are doing things without realizing the damage it could cause.

    Here are a few of mines:

    Tip #1
    When doing film testing for 35mm, I usually shoot 10 frames of Zone I (1/3 stops) of 2 stops under and 1 stop over box's speed. Shoot 1 blank frame. Then do the same 10 frames at Zone VIII.

    Why??? Because once developed, I will have both Zone I and VIII without having to do separate steps for highlight testing. Say if my Zone I landed on the third frame. That means on the Zone VIII frame, I measure the third frame of that as well. If the density is too high, redevelop another roll with less time. If it finally lands perfectly, you've saved yourself a step from having to do highlight testing. This is also very effective because you can guage how Zone I changes slightly with development modification.

    On 120 film, I usually do 1/2 stop steps at 2 stops under box speed. Since EI is usually half indicated speed.

    ========

    Tip #2
    When you're in the dark moving your rollfilm to your developing tank, be sure NOT to rip the sticky tape at the end off of the emulsion. When doing so, it unleashes static and will create a small spark that can potentially fog your film. It has happened to me once, so from now on, I simply cut it with a scissor.

    ========

    Tip #3
    Bulk Loading: With bulk loading, you could be loading up to 20 rolls, and after a while, as more film is purchased, you end up with a mix of 100/400 film, etc. Instead of labeling my canisters - which could take a long time to do, I usually cut the leader to identify the speed. So for ISO 100, I usually cut a diagonal peice taking off only one sprocket. For ISO 400, I cut a diagonal taking up 4 sprockets. This saves me a lot of time when putting everything together in a hurry. This also helps if you're not sure what film you have once you're in the changing bag and already opened up the canister.. just feel the cut, if the angle is further, you know its 400. If its narrower, its 100. For unusual numbers like Plus-X, i usually cut a notch like whats done on large format sheets.


    Umm... That's all I have for now... Hope that helps. Lets hear yours..

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Louisiana, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,325
    1--I don't do zones.

    2--I fold the tape over and stick it on the leader of the film to make it easier to load on the reel.

    I know. I'm a heathen.

  3. #3
    Flotsam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    S.E. New York State
    Posts
    3,221
    Images
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by djklmnop
    Tip #2
    be sure NOT to rip the sticky tape at the end off of the emulsion. When doing so, it unleashes static and will create a small spark that can potentially fog your film.
    When I mention that lifting a piece of tape actually produces light to my "light dwelling" friends, they don't believe me.
    That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.
    =Neal W.=

  4. #4
    lee
    lee is offline
    lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Fort Worth TX
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    2,913
    Images
    8
    I have seen this but am one of the ones that believes it will do no harm. In the several thounds rolls of 35mm I have processed at my darkroom one would think there would be proof but there is none at my darkroom.

    lee\c

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,042
    My only real tip for now is never be afraid to experiment with developing and printing. It's amazing the things I found that I like the look of after avoiding them for years because "everyone says it looks yuk". Using Rodinal for fast films is a prime example, not everyone may like the look but I do and I have to thank some of the people here for suggesting that I did give it a try.

  6. #6
    djklmnop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Shooter
    4x5 Format
    Posts
    230
    Images
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by TPPhotog
    My only real tip for now is never be afraid to experiment with developing and printing. It's amazing the things I found that I like the look of after avoiding them for years because "everyone says it looks yuk". Using Rodinal for fast films is a prime example, not everyone may like the look but I do and I have to thank some of the people here for suggesting that I did give it a try.

    It's interesting you bring that up.. I've been attempting to develop DEKTOL with Delta 3200. Still working on the calibration, but the dilution is amazingly difficult to tame. I'm still overdeveloping even at dulition 1:100 or more. My friend has made some successful prints from them and even though it is extremely grainy, the printout is extremely sharp and has a great feeling once sepia tone.. A seriously vintage look!

  7. #7
    BWGirl's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Wisconsin, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,050
    Images
    18
    Well, here are my tips...I know they are pretty basic, but they've made my life easier!

    I made a sheet with several commonly used ratios on it (1:9, 1:4, 1:50, etc) and defined the quanities for these ratios for several measures I normally use. For example, in the "1:9 section" I have 35ml + 315ml = 350ml and a few others. Likewise for the other ratios. I printed out two copies and slipped each one in a clear plastic sheet protector. I hung one in the darkroom and the other over the sink where I develop my film.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I also made a sheet that shows the films I use, the speeds I shoot them at and the ratio & time for each of the two developers I use. I update this sheet when I find I have to make adjustments to time or developer ratios. I slid this sheet into the other side of the ratio sheet over the sink.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I keep a spiral log book in the darkroom and I write down my development times, dodging & burning, filters and other notes about each print. Also, before each printing session, I go through my negative book and determine what I want to print.
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Ok, so this all sounds a little anal, but the more organized I am, the less I have to burden my poor brain with trivial things!
    Jeanette
    .................................................. ................
    Isaiah 25:1

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    3,042
    Jeanette I wish I could bring myself to be that efficient. All I do is write the film, rating for shoot, soup, dilution and time on the sleeves I keep my negs in. Can be a pain in the proverbial searching back if I haven't used a certain film for a while.

    Ooooops there's another tip

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    16,890
    Quote Originally Posted by TPPhotog
    My only real tip for now is never be afraid to experiment with developing and printing. It's amazing the things I found that I like the look of after avoiding them for years because "everyone says it looks yuk". Using Rodinal for fast films is a prime example, not everyone may like the look but I do and I have to thank some of the people here for suggesting that I did give it a try.
    you beat me to it!

    don't worry about what other people think, just do what you want ...
    ( i've been processing film in ansco 130 paper developer for 4 years )

  10. #10
    Chaska's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    93
    Images
    1
    jnanian, What dilution/times are you using with Ansco 130 for film? I just started using it for paper and love it. Would love to cut down on the number of soups I have hanging around.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin