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  1. #1
    dr bob's Avatar
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    EFKE 120 (R100) in a Koni Omega

    Has anyone used this film in a Koni Omega Rapid or other camera with a similar feed system? I seem to have some registration problems with overlaps which seems to indicate some sort of take-up reel diameter problem. No obvious problem in the C330f.

    I've measured the film, paper, and reel diameter and can come up with no good explanation. The problem is not serious but a bit distracting. I've had no problem with PXP, TX, TXP, TMX, TMY, HP5+, or FP4. Puzzled?
    I love the smell of fixer in the morning. It smells like...creativity!
    Truly, dr bob.

  2. #2

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    Not the R100, but I used Efke R25 in my Koni and didn't have any unusual problems (though the frame spacing with that camera is erratic /all the time/ IME). The pictures from that roll came out very well and I have a few hanging on my wall at home now!

  3. #3
    Denis P.'s Avatar
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    I've used Efke R100, and any spacing problems are due mostly to operator error.
    My Koni does have some issues with frame spacing, but not always - it starts with wide spacings and ends with some very tight... But again, not always.
    I've used R100 exclusively with this camera. Happy with both the film and the camera!

    Denis

  4. #4

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    I don't use a Koni, but I had the same problem with Efke in my Rolleiflex SL66 backs. I was ready to give up and send one of the backs in to be readjusted for the difference in film base thickness, but then I got a great tip: wind slowly and carefully. On the Rollei you wind the crank forward, then back -- I think it was not carefully completing this backward rotation that was causing my problem.

    Again, different cameras, maybe a totally differend winding system, but maybe it will help you.

  5. #5
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    This sounds like the problem I've experienced with an old knob-wind Linhof Rollex back. The later Super-Rollex backs have a feeler wheel that meters film travel independent of the thickness of the film or the backing. The earlier backs turn a fixed number of turns, so some films work and others don't, and it's not worth fixing.

    If you've got room at the end of the roll, you might just close the back and start the counter a little further past the arrow than you normally would, or you could add a couple of thicknesses of masking tape to the leader at the beginning of the roll to see if that helps. Otherwise, just experiment and see what films work. It sounds like you've already got a good selection.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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  6. #6

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    Good Afternoon, Dr. Bob,

    I have no experience with Efke film in my Koni, but I can agree with the comments by Jordan and Denis regarding frame spacing in Koni backs. Wouldn't it be great if someone would tool up to make new backs which would be minus the weaknesses of the original Konis?

    Konical

  7. #7
    Jon King's Avatar
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    I recently purchased 5 rolls of Efke 100 for use in my KO. I normally use Tri-X or APX100. Hopefully I'll try it out this weekend, and I'll let you know the results.

    Jon

  8. #8
    dr bob's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback so far. I use a couple of "test" rolls marked as to the spacing which I have run through. One is a TMX and the other TX. Both register properly and most importantly, identically.

    To add a little more data, today I processed an Efke roll from the second back. The registration was almost identical - same spacing - same slight overlaps in the same frames. Any other ideas?
    I love the smell of fixer in the morning. It smells like...creativity!
    Truly, dr bob.

  9. #9
    Jon King's Avatar
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    I just opened the foil on a roll of old Tri-X and Efke R100. The film spools are the same diameter, but the diameter of the film and paper definitely are not! One or both must be thinner than the Kodak.

    I haven't taken apart a Koni back, but I think that despite the straight motion of the film advance handle, the back is actually turning the film a particular number of rotations for each frame, like most cameras. The thickness difference could certainly mess this up the spacing.

    Sort of makes me wonder why this isn't a problem for other cameras?

  10. #10
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I think most cameras have a wheel that can measure the actual distance the film travels. It's not particularly new technology. My 1933 Voigtlaender Superb TLR doesn't have auto stop film winding, but it does have a wheel to meter the distance the film travels, and I've never had a problem with overlapping frames.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
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