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  1. #11
    K-G
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    I have used the Paterson 5 roll tanks ( 3 rolls for 120 ) for over thirty years without problem. Especially the later type with the wide top with bayonet lock is very convenient and easy to use. The filling and emptying is much more easy and rapid than with the old design with the screw on top. If you are just consistent with the timing, start when you start filling and stop when you start emptying or start when you finish filling and stop when you finish emptying, then you shouldn't have any problem.
    The only thing that can cause some stress is if the rubber lid doesn't go on leakproof at once. But on the other hand, that is independent of tank size.

    Karl-Gustaf
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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cantore View Post
    I definitely dont want to risk anything and wind up with uneven development so i will try the 2 reels with the top third reel being empty so i proper flow while inverting the tank. Rick.. I have been using Rodinal 1+25 with the 4 minute developing time for several years and have never had a single roll with uneven development. Thank you to everyone for the great advice. I appreciate it very much!
    BTW: If you're just getting into printing, you'll be soon having some second thoughts about "I like contrast." What you're going to find is that negatives that look contrasty end up being a pain in the ass to print without screwing around with filters, etc. to bring it back in line. Printing will add contrast - so try to target a balanced negative that isn't "hot."
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    Ian makes a very good point. If Paterson 3 roll tanks work well with the 3:15 times needed for C-41, then 4 minute times are certainly doable.

    Short times do require good, repeatable technique though.
    I'm betting the infusion for developer is quite different between C41 and b&w emulsions.

    I hate to disagree with you Matt but Kodak recommends 5 minutes at the short end for b/w.

  4. #14

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    I am not familiar with plastic tanks, as I only use the stainless steel Nikkor.
    There is also this possibility:
    The most precise timing & fastest immersion is by filling the open tank with developer,
    then turning off the lights and just dropping the reels into it & then putting on the top.
    Of course this only works if you have a totally blacked out dark room.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by brucemuir View Post
    I'm betting the infusion for developer is quite different between C41 and b&w emulsions.

    I hate to disagree with you Matt but Kodak recommends 5 minutes at the short end for b/w.
    Bruce:

    It is interesting how Kodak words it.

    If you review their development charts, they have specific entries marked "NR" for "Not Recommended".

    And then they have other entries where they give times that are less than 5 minutes, which are invariably accompanied by an asterisk, which refers to a note that says: "Development times shorter than 5 minutes may produce unsatisfactory results." (my emphasis added)

    I take that to mean that if you are using short development times, you have to have excellent, repeatable technique in order to get satisfactory results.

    But that approach certainly is open to argument.

    It would be interesting to hear from PE whether or not there differences between diffusion rates.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post


    It would be interesting to hear from PE whether or not there differences between diffusion rates.
    Yea, I was hoping he'd see this and chime in but I know how busy he is.

    Anyway, I admit I've used 4:30 minutes with HC110 at one of the dilutions (forget with one 1:32 maybe).
    I've actually never had any problems that I could notice but in general I won't go under 5 minutes if at all possible.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by clayne View Post
    BTW: If you're just getting into printing, you'll be soon having some second thoughts about "I like contrast." What you're going to find is that negatives that look contrasty end up being a pain in the ass to print without screwing around with filters, etc. to bring it back in line. Printing will add contrast - so try to target a balanced negative that isn't "hot."

    I have worried about that also but until now i havent any issues yet. I recently started to try split-grade printing using the 0 & 5 filters and think i will stick with that method. I pretty much only shoot Adox film and print on Ilford MG VC paper and enjoyed my prints printed with no filter. Im an amateur with the printing process and want to learn all i can. Actually i think im addicted to it!

  8. #18

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    I have read several comments about my 4 minute developing not being good enough but also Kodak was the reference mentioned. I dont know if this matters but i shoot Adox film (CHS ART 25).

  9. #19

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    Yep, you're being paranoid! But the 4 minute development time you mention is a bit of a concern. You don't state what temperature you're using though. Is it 24 or 25 deg C?

    You needn't change your 1+25 Rodinal mix - just lower your process temperatures by a few degrees to 20C, or if that's where you are at present then go back to 18C and increase the time accordingly.

    I use single and three reel Paterson tanks without a problem but I use Rodinal at 1+50 and 20C and it takes quite a bit longer than you're using.
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  10. #20
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    I'm using a new paterson 3 reel tank. The fill and empty rates are quite fast. It replaced an old vivitar 4 reel tank that finally cracked after 35 years which also had a fast fill/empty rate. I start my timer when I finish filling the tank and empty the developer about 20 seconds prior to the end of the time period. That leaves plenty of time to pour in the water or stop bath and agitate to stop development.

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