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  1. #1

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    Blue negative after developing

    I just developed my first black and white negative. Well sort of. The film is currently drying but the negative is blueish. Something must have gone wrong.

    Details:

    500ml Patterson Developing tank
    Rodinol 1+100 (5ml on 500ml) developer
    Adofix as fixer (1+9)
    Water as stopbad
    Semi-stand developing, agitation during the first minute, then 10 agitations at the 30min mark. Removal of the developer after 60min. 3 washing/stopping cycles with clear water (incl. agitation). Then 4min fix (continuous agitation). Washing with water for an additional 8min.

    Before I continue with the next film, can somebody tell me what I did wrong? Thanx!

  2. #2
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    What film is it?
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  3. #3
    Brian C. Miller's Avatar
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    What brand of film did you use?

  4. #4

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    I am sorry! It is Fomapan 120 Iso400.

  5. #5
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    If it's Foma film in 120 format it's supposed to be blue.
    With any other film that would be slightly strange.

    As an aside: why are you doing standing development anyway, risking uneven development, before you have learned to process the way your products were designed to? It's usually considered a technique for extreme situations.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  6. #6
    Mainecoonmaniac's Avatar
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    Have the same problem with Arista EDU 120. My Xtol that I replenish is also blue/green from souping the film. As far as I know, It hasn't caused any problems. I think it's the anti-halation dye.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Bertilsson View Post
    If it's Foma film in 120 format it's supposed to be blue.
    With any other film that would be slightly strange.

    As an aside: why are you doing standing development anyway, risking uneven development, before you have learned to process the way your products were designed to? It's usually considered a technique for extreme situations.
    I am scanning my film and found that the best way to do this is stand developing.

    Thanx for the information..feel somewhat stupid..

  8. #8
    edp
    edp is offline

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainecoonmaniac View Post
    Have the same problem with Arista EDU 120.
    Same thing as Fomapan 100. Same blue polyester base.

  9. #9
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mainecoonmaniac View Post
    Have the same problem with Arista EDU 120. My Xtol that I replenish is also blue/green from souping the film. As far as I know, It hasn't caused any problems. I think it's the anti-halation dye.
    Doesn't it look cool, though? I love that turquoise color and almost want to keep a few rolls around just for the color.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  10. #10
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fbfotografie View Post
    I am scanning my film and found that the best way to do this is stand developing.

    Thanx for the information..feel somewhat stupid..
    Don't feel stupid. I remember first time I processed a roll of Foma 120 film, and I had the same reaction as you.

    So you get better results with standing development when you scan your film? Interesting. Perhaps it compresses the tone scale enough that the scanner has no problems seeing the full range...

    Either way, there's no reason you can't do that while agitating normally, and eliminate the risk of uneven development. But, I'll leave you alone... Have fun!
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

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