Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,300   Posts: 1,535,816   Online: 730
      

View Poll Results: what is the easiest BW film to develop for a beginner?

Voters
37. You may not vote on this poll
  • Arista Premium

    24 64.86%
  • Lucky BW

    1 2.70%
  • Fuji Acros

    8 21.62%
  • T-Max

    8 21.62%
Multiple Choice Poll.
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 29
  1. #11
    kb3lms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Reading, PA USA
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    696
    Images
    5
    Tri-X aka Arista Premium or FP4. Besides being beginner friendly, there is information all over the place about processing these films.

    To respond to the other part of your question, you can defintely use the same equipment for color film as for B/W. You need different chemistry, obviously, but just start with a Rollei/digibase kit (if you can get that in Indonesia) and you will be good to go. C-41 color is not really any harder than B/W except you need to maintain a higher temperature and keep it failrly well controlled.

    Start with B/W and once you feel comfortable with that, try color.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    local
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    16,147
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    1
    use whatever chemistry is available locally ...
    silver magnets, trickle tanks sold
    artwork often times sold for charity
    PM me for details

  3. #13

    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Plymouth. UK.
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,401
    Images
    3
    Of the films you already have, I would go with the Arista 400.

  4. #14
    Harry Lime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Shooter
    35mm RF
    Posts
    467
    Tri-X aka Arista Premium 400

    Barry Thornton's 2-bath developer - Dirt cheap and absolutely fool proof in practice and outstanding results up to 400asa.

    http://www.photosensitive.ca/wp/archives/115


    Bath A
    80 g sodium sulfite
    6.5 g metol
    Make up to 1 L with water

    Bath B
    12 g sodium metaborate (Kodalk)
    Make up to 1 L with water

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    305
    There is an article here http://www.twelvesmallsquares.blogsp...and-white.html all about ddeveloping black and white film

  6. #16
    Brian C. Miller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Everett, WA
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    495
    Blog Entries
    2
    Images
    13
    All of them. Really.
    Before starting, check which film and developer combination gives you about 7 minutes or so developing time. This is short enough so that you won't get bored, and long enough that you won't get uneven development from pouring the chemicals into a tank with a narrow light trap.

    An anti-halation layer prevents halation, i.e., those halos you see around bright objects. Kodak HIE had no anti-halation layer, so that's why you see big blooms in the IR photos from overexposing it. (And also why it had to be loaded in a dark bag) The most important thing about photography is being there for the photograph.

    Everything has a sweet spot for exposure and development. Find what works for the film you use. This will take a bit of experimentation, but don't worry about that for now. Just pick something, use it, and process it. Enjoy!

  7. #17
    Vaughn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Humboldt Co.
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    4,636
    Images
    40
    Easiest to develop for beginners -- Tri-X (Arista premium 400).

    T-Max is a great film -- it just does not have the developing latitude as the others. In other words, small changes in dilution, temp, and agitation will have a greater effect on T-Max than the other films. But it has a greater exposure latitude than the others, so it is a trade-off.

    But the difference in development latitude is not all that significant if some care is given to one's technique.

    Vaughn
    At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Indonesia
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    11
    thanks for all the responses

    I just found out that there are only (actually, the only locally available developer) very limited stock D-76 and ID-11 at A local seller. can you believe it? there is only one shop here in Jakarta (which I believe that is also the only one in Indonesia) that sells film developer. as for the fixer and bath stop, they don't have any in stock currently. need to wait several weeks to restock. but later someone told me there's a guy who sells unbranded homemade developer and fixer. but I think I'll go with ID-11 for the moment and wait for the Ilford fixer back in stock.

    and another bad news is I can't use arista premium anymore since the seller is not interested to restock. so my only choice is go for kodak tx, which costs almost double than arista.

    thanks again!

  9. #19
    Helinophoto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Norway
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    562
    Images
    20
    One other option is to buy (dry) chemicals from freestyle and/or bhphotovideo, not sure how it is with wet chemicals, but if UPS have their own planes, they might even be able to ship that too.

    I order over the net all the time, no local shops here sells much of what I need.
    -
    "Nice picture, you must have an amazing camera."
    Visit my photography blog at: http://helino-photo.blogspot.com

  10. #20
    polyglot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    South Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    3,226
    Images
    12
    I suggest buying chemistry from the USA; it's usually cheaper for us in Australia than buying locally and I suspect the situation is similar or worse in Indonesia.

    If you're just starting out developing, I would suggest avoiding a T-grain film (T-Max, Delta, Acros) because they are more sensitive to processing adjustments/errors. Some Fomapan (Arista), Tri-X, FP4 or HP5 would be the most-bulletproof place to start.

    Have a read of the FAQs in my signature.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin