To Techpan or not to Techpan....that is my question...
Ok, so I am trying to be a bit more mature and professional about my film choices for the next few years in terms of realistic image making as a business instead of dabbling. I started "gathering" Kodak Technical Pan in both 35mm and 120 in 2004. Needless to say I have a pretty healthy stash of it, all late dates, deep frozen. I also have a about half the Technidol required to soup it, the other half is TD3.
Now that Rollei ATP is out I have been playing with it a bit and it is good, no grain, but curls like Shirly Temple. I have started printing an edition of landscapes from APX-25 in 120 and I just love the tonality, a total breeze to print, have a decent but not huge stash of that too. So I am thinking in terms of practical return on my investment, getting consistent results that I can use for years. Most of my prints will be on 11x 14, 16 x 20 and 20 x 24 paper with the occasional larger size.
So I am tempted to part out of my TP, get enough capitol out of it to re-invest in a smaller stash of ATP and more TMX / 120 since prices are going up, the rest on paper, matting material, etc.
I have enough TP to do about ten years worth of projects / shows, but wonder about the choice in terms of professional production value. I hardly see any great shots from it or the new ATP for that matter, all techno-dabble thus far.
When ever I have asked about consistent processing of it, there is not one person who has claimed to arrive at a consistent alternative to Technidol. So I have two film backs loaded with both TP and ATP...I am thinking of loading one with TMX just to put a dose of reality in there and take a week really working hard to create scenes that I would actually sell as fine art prints.
With great films like Pan-F, TMX with superb tonal range, why would someone even use TP or ATP?
If you have other films you are perfectly happy with then sell the tech pan. You'll make a mint.
When TMX came out it in the 1980s was pretty much 'nails in the coffin' for Tech Pan as far as I was concerned. The only thing that would make me try Tech Pan again would be the introduction of some new developer that allows you to easily and reliably process it with a long tonal range and an even sky.
I don't really understand your claim here....
Originally Posted by PKM-25
I have constantly stated, that using Tech Pan using it at 199iso and develop it in Tetenal Neofin Doku, I have my all time best non-grain film!
T-max.... you must be kidding....
The techpan was my "secret" weapon for portraits of especially young girls. They all almost fell in love with me, thinking I was the master.... (but I knew silently that the film was the reason..)
I hate the fact that it is no more... I have some films left - from 135mm to 4x5" and a small stock of the neofin doku.
I have tried the technidol, but never got the results I wanted...
Neofin doku is the secret behind the secret film....
(Sell the stuff to me!)
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Not really wanting to use it for people and did not think you could Neofin Doku anymore?
I found that Tech Pan could give incredible contrast (as in a lot of it) for small platinum or carbon prints. That is my use for it (if I had any)...
I also loved Kodak copy film in sheets for the same reason.
At least with LF landscape, a bad day of photography can still be a good day of exercise.
I suppose I could use TP for some of the long term people work I am doing, but the following image is more in line with what I am after, stark, strange light....
Sell it to the techpan freaks. :-)
Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.
My opinion, if you're trying to be more mature about it sell your Tech Pan and get yourself a pictorial film - which will have some more grain, but will be far superior in every other way.
When it comes to grain and resolution, accept the realistic limits of whatever film format you are shooting, and work to maximize the quality with careful exposure, processing and printing. So if you are shooting roll film, you will be MUCH better off if you accept a little grain, and work on technique to maximize the tonal palette and sharpness. With document films, there are severe limitations, regardless of what developer you use. Technidol, Adotech and other POTA variants are not very good. Uneven development is almost assured, and the luminance range is still very limited. TD-3 is a good developer, but you'll still be much better off with a general purpose film and developer.
I'd caution anyone who's been told using document films can make their prints look like they used a larger film format. I have never seen a print from a 35mm Tech Pan, CMS20, ATP etc negative look like anything other than 35mm - albeit with less grain and harsh, usually poor tonality.