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Thread: Stop bath

  1. #21

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    Hi
    I use water rinse for film and Citric acid, in about the same concentration as you Morten, for paper. I think there is no need to spoil the fine odeur of Neutol and especially Rodinal with acetic acid.
    Ken, be carefull with that clacial acetic acid ok.
    Cheers

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Soeren
    Hi
    I use water rinse for film and Citric acid, in about the same concentration as you Morten, for paper. I think there is no need to spoil the fine odeur of Neutol and especially Rodinal with acetic acid.
    Ken, be carefull with that clacial acetic acid ok.
    Cheers
    Nice to see another dane here

    Søren, I have PM'ed you.

  3. #23

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    Yeah, and another member of your church.
    Ok it supports the ø hmm
    Yes Morten I have PM´ed back.
    Søren

  4. #24
    gainer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Sukach
    I was about to ask ...

    The one place I've found stop bath to be a necessity is between color developer and bleach-fix in color printing. I have a *bunch* of literature advising against it in ALL film developing, especially color ... but each to their own strokes.

    1:3 seems rather intense... Does this equal anything like a 1% - 2% solution of acetic acid?
    The standard white vinegar is 5%, so the 1+3 is 1.25%. Just about right for stop bath.
    Gadget Gainer

  5. #25

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    Water for film,

    I've been using water stop for film for years, it works fine. I'm curious to know what sort of problems people have had with not using a stop with film. I do use a stop with prints, mainly to extend the life of my fixer. I've been toying with the idea of moving to an all alkaline printing regimen, so maybe I'll ditch the stop one of these days...

    Isaac
    See my adventures in Yemen here:
    www.isaharr.com

  6. #26
    mobtown_4x5's Avatar
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    Yes, the water stop prevents you from stopping deveopment in an instant- the gain, in my experience is slightly increased shadow detail that does not block the highlights....this is a bad thing? Not for me! My negatives look better after moving to TF-4 and a water stop...try it!

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by mobtown_4x5
    ...TF-4 and a water stop...try it!
    I will. I have been wanting TF-4 for some time now, and I will order some asap

  8. #28
    rjr
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    Mobtown,

    if you wash only shortly, you live in danger of having dichroit fog on your negatives and prints. Thats why I "stop" with several water changes on film and with only slightly acid stop followed by alkaline/neutral fix on prints.

    Dichroit fogs are more obvious on prints - you get a pink stain in the whites.

    Morten,

    no need to throw money out of the windows for the proprietary TF4 - any alkaline or neutral fix has the same characteristics and all of them are muuuuuch cheaper due to competition on the market. Look out for a fix labeled with "C41/E6 fix", they are used in minilabs and thus have to be cheap. :-)

    Brand names are Tetenal Unicolor Fix, Calbe FX-R (actually Fuji-Hunt chemistry), Agfa sells the FX-Universal with instructions for C41, E6 AND BW processes.

    I currently use Calbe FX-R, got it for 6EUR/2l of concentrate, good enough for 10l of strong fix.
    Tschüss,
    Roman

  9. #29
    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjr
    Mobtown,

    - any alkaline or neutral fix has the same characteristics [as T-4] and all of them are muuuuuch cheaper due to competition on the market. Look out for a fix labeled with "C41/E6 fix", they are used in minilabs and thus have to be cheap. :-)
    Am I understanding you correctly? Any C41/E6 fixer can be substituted for TF-4? As in PMK developed negs where TF-4 is considered mandatory, a C41/E6 fix will provide the identical fixation as TF-4?

  10. #30
    rjr
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    Bruce,

    I guess so, yes - AFAIK TF4 is nothing but another alkaline fixer, just like Amaloco´s H88 (or is it X88?). The only difference I am aware of is the price.

    I am not that accustomed to PMK, so I did a google search on the question. The only thing I recalled that an acid rapid fix would diminish the stain.

    In the following link there is a pretty clear statement:

    http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/pmk.html

    "An alkaline fixer solution such as TF-4 is recommended for achieving maximum pyro stain on the negative." - any of the given examples would fit that bill.

    A friend is using the Tetenal Unicolor with Pyrocat HD, I use it with all my bw processes for reasons for cost (cheaper than acid fix), speed and comfort (smell and washing times).
    Last edited by rjr; 11-13-2004 at 11:50 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Additional comments
    Tschüss,
    Roman

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