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Thread: Stop bath

  1. #1

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    Stop bath

    Hi

    I would like to hear your opinion on stop bath. What do you use and why?
    Myself, I use either this or acetic acid.

    What are the pros and cons of stop bath vs. plain water.

    Morten

  2. #2
    VoidoidRamone's Avatar
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    I've been using plain water for a while now. One thing is that it's cheaper. The second thing is that I use TF-4 which doesn't require a stop-bath. Other than that, I don't really have a great reason. I'm sure others will have better responses and actually know what they're talking about. -Grant

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    Ole
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    Normally I use alkaline fix, and either water or nothing at all as stop.

    In the rare cases that I need a stop bath (e.g. lith printing), I use citric acid. About 1/3 of a 25g-packet from the supermarket in 1 liter water - close enough to "modastop".
    -- Ole Tjugen, Luddite Elitist
    Norway

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    Bruce Osgood's Avatar
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    I use distilled white vinegar at 1+3.

    I think a Stop Bath (as opposed to a water bath) is a must. It will STOP development when you feel it is time, whereas, a water bath allows the print to continue developing for as long as 5 minutes in my experience. I use a water bath between developer 1 and 2 when split developing for just these reasons but after final development the Stop Bath will additionally prevent carry-over into the Fix(s).

    No, my prints do not smell like a salad.
    Last edited by Bruce Osgood; 11-10-2004 at 09:38 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: add a line

  5. #5
    sparx's Avatar
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    I stopped using stop after similar discussions here a while back. Now i just use water with film and print developing and haven't noticed any differences in the final product. So I will continue to just use water.
    [size=1]the all new darkplanet photoblog[/size][size=1]
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  6. #6
    Leon's Avatar
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    I use a very mild stop when printing - jsut a tiny squirt of stop in a big tray of water - when I've run out of stop I will probably use a few drops of vinegar. As long as you assess the print once it is fully fixed, I dont think the carry over of development really matters too much does it? once it's fixed, it's fixed. i reckon consistent practice is more important. If you're getting the reults you want from your methods, why worry?

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    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce (Camclicker)
    I use distilled white vinegar at 1+3.

    I think a Stop Bath (as opposed to a water bath) is a must.
    I was about to ask ...

    The one place I've found stop bath to be a necessity is between color developer and bleach-fix in color printing. I have a *bunch* of literature advising against it in ALL film developing, especially color ... but each to their own strokes.

    1:3 seems rather intense... Does this equal anything like a 1% - 2% solution of acetic acid?
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

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    Unless there is a recommendation to not use an acid stop, then you are much better off using it. The stuff is incredibly cheap, as photo chemicals go, and the life of your fixer - not so cheap - will be extended. Whether you prefer citric acid or acetic acid is your choice and doesn't matter much. White vinegar works, but isn't really cheaper than a prepared indicating stop bath.

  9. #9

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    I use a stop bath for both paper and film. Stop bath has the amazing ability to halt the development step, and to prevent the formation of dichroic fog that can occur when fixing has begun and development has not stopped. With paper, it can extent the life of the fixer.

    For paper, I used citric acid solution as it has no odor.

    For film, in the past I used regular indicating stop, but now I an using a buffered stop bath similar to what is described in "The Film Developing Cookbook". This is a solution of acetic acid and sodium acetate. It is supposed to stop very quickly due to a higher acid content, and also has a high dissolved solids content that is supposed to help with swelling of the emulsion.

    As far as stop bath with pyro developers go, I found that I could not detect a significant difference between using a stop bath and a water bath with PMK processed films. The only difference I found was that the water bath processed films were slightly higher in density, but I would attribute that difference to the fact that the development was not halted as quickly with the water bath as it was with a stop bath. And the difference in densitites was small. So I use a stop with PMK.

  10. #10

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    Kodak Indicator Stop Bath. It's the only thing I've ever used, it works, it's available, it's cheap--so I continue to use it.

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