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  1. #1

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    Effective Agitation for semi-stand developing? preventing uneven development?

    I just started with developing my own B&W film using Rodinol 100+1, semi stand, agitation during the first minute, then every 20 min 5 agitations. Total time 60min. Used Tri-x and Fomapan 400 (120 film).

    Unfortunately the results are inconsitant. Sometimes there is no uneven development, sometimes there is. I tried to increase the developer from the required 500ml to 600ml but without any real improvement.

    I don't understant why sertain people DO get uneven development, while others don't see this effect. That is the reason why I have opened this topic. I would like to hear YOUR thoughts about uneven development and stand developing. I would like to hear your opinion about:

    - The best way to aggitate; swirls/180 degree flips/360 degree flips/shaking/tapping/rolling etc..
    - How many aggitiations? time?
    - More or less developer in the tank?
    - The reel at the bottom of the tank of create (~0,5cm?) some space?

    Thank you!

    I would like to use stand developing in the future for pushed Tri-x films, with should produce a finer grain.

  2. #2
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Is there any pattern to which film gives uneven development? Foma vs Tri-X?
    Standing development is tricky business, and maybe not the best way to learn. If I were you I'd try agitating with three minute intervals and develop for however long it takes to get good printable negatives. You can get almost the same results, mackie lines and everything, but much safer.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #3

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    I did not see great differences between the Fomapan en Tri-x (i like tri-x better do), but I do find more uneven development at the center of the reel.

  4. #4
    darkosaric's Avatar
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    When I do semi stand (40-60min rodinal 1+100) I always fill tank with 700ml (it leaves a lot of air to make good agitation), one or two rolls, and for the first 30 sec strong agitation, then tapping on bottom to remove air bubbles, and 5 strong agitation (very strong) after half time, tapping again. I had no problems - usually I do semi stand with efke films.

  5. #5

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    Darko, what do you mean by strong agitation. Is it shaking or just many 180 degree turnovers?

    Ps. great pictures on your site btw.

  6. #6
    Helinophoto's Avatar
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    I use the agitation method from the caffenol blog: Agitation first 30sec, then agitation at 2, 4, 8, 16 and at the 32'th minute, then let stand to 70 minutes.
    Worked just fine the last time I did it, but I've never done with 120 film.

    I think this is a good method, because you agitate more, as the developer is most active, the last part of the journey is probably dominated by a lesser active development process, requiring less agitation perhaps?

    If I did it with 120 film, I would make damn sure that the reels were covered very well and really smack the tank on my hand after every agitation turn, to make sure the reel wasn't stuck above the developer in the tank.
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    "Nice picture, you must have an amazing camera."
    Visit my photography blog at: http://helino-photo.blogspot.com

  7. #7
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    So, why not try Rodinal 1+100, with at least 5ml of concentrate per roll of film, but agitating every 3 minutes? You might find yourself developing for about 30 minutes with Tri-X underexposed one stop (EI 800), and 40 minutes underexposed two stops (1600). Two full inversions every three minutes, and slow agitation for the full first minute. I'm pretty sure you'd get similar results to semi-stand but with much less problems. What have you got to lose?

    But if you really must continue with standing development, be prepared for issues, even though you might see some benefits with the longer developing time (a bit more shadow detail).

    120 film is a lot more susceptible to issues with uneven development than 35mm, and I'm not sure anybody can say with scientific certainty WHY it works flawlessly time and again for some, and other people see problems. I wish you the best of luck!
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  8. #8

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    I'm agitating film in a 1/2 or 1-liter tank for 1 minute continuously and then 2 inversions every 3 minutes over a 12-minute period. I'm getting very even development and good, sharp negatives with no excessive edge effects. I'm using 120 Agfa APX100 and Fuji Acros in Pyrocat HD. This is for "normal" images. For "plus 1" I just shorten the period between agitation cycles to 2 minutes and invert the tanks 3 times.

    Peter Gomena

  9. #9
    jcoldslabs's Avatar
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    Lately I have been developing my 4x5 sheet film in a JOBO tank on a reel using HC-110 dil. G (1:119) with gentle agitation the first full minute by inversion and then ONE gentle inversion every five minutes for 25 minutes total. That amounts to only four proper inversions after the initial round, unless you count the pour-out as one. No problems, nothing uneven, with a nice compensating effect in the highlights.

    Jonathan

  10. #10

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    Stand and semi stand will surprise you eventually. That is why you never see it in manufactures instructions,it is not 100% reliable.

    As far as agitation goes, any scheme that replenishes the developer over the full surface of the film will do. More does not help, less can leave local areas of lower density.

    Streaking is bromide drag which is a byproduct of the developing process which inhibits further development locally when it runs down the film. Insufficient agitation will leave the bromide in place causing streaking.

    Rodinal 1:100 will work fine for 10 sec per minute. 7 inversions in 10 sec is ok, then put the reel in the water bath and twist it 1/3 turn so you randomize the flow .

    Agitation needs to be vigorous enough to replenish over the whole surface and random enough so as not to set up flow patterns that may cause underdeveloped area. Contrary to what you may read, they are not "surge marks", but simply areas that got under replenished.

    Start by following standard procedures, then branch out to experimental things with test films and see if they benefit you. Think of it this way, you do not take student driver in Formula 1 cars or learn to run before walking.

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