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  1. #11
    raucousimages's Avatar
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    I use an immersion heater like the ones you can dip into a drink at your desk. Just fill a beaker with developer or fixer, warm it with the heater, pour it back and check the temp.

    John
    DIGITAL IS FOR THOSE AFRAID OF THE DARK.

  2. #12
    Bob F.'s Avatar
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    Modern films are supposed to be less prone to reticulation - I seem to recall a magazine article 10 - 15 years ago when they tried to create reticulation and ended up having to dunk the developed film in a beaker of ice-water...

    I use a CPE2 now and always used to work at room temperature in any case so this is not something I've ever worried about, but my guess is as most have suggested: within a few degrees will be just fine. Obviously the developer needs tight time Vs temperature regulation - the stop and fix need only be in the ball-park. The fixer (and/or film) manufacturer(s) will give time/temperature graphs for fixing most films.

    Cheers, Bob.

    P.S. - if using a microwave, remember to take the thermometer out first....

  3. #13
    Leon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leon
    i dont worry about the fixer temp. I have a tray warmer that I use to keep the developer at 20, or whatever, but the stop and fixer are in the darkroom sink, which is pretty cold most of the time. I've had no probs with this at all and I fix a small piece of film every half hour to check clearing times and these are always fine ... I've notice no difference to having it a the summer ambient room temperatures. I tone my prints regularly and have had very few fixer probs show up - only a couple of poor washing signs, but none of those recently.
    Whoops - theres me going on about prints, and suzanne was talking about films - what an idiot I am!

    When developing films, I keep my developing drum and the fixer bottle in a water bath (plastic bowl) of about 2-3 degrees higher than I want the developer to be at. I regularly check the temp of the developer in the tank, but am never too bothered about he fix temp . + or - a couple of degrees seems to be fine.

    that'll teach me to not read the original thread posting now wont it!

  4. #14
    Melisa Taylor's Avatar
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    like Leon, I've never been too concerned about my fixer temp.

    i just keep fixer and stop between 65 and 75 degrees and all is fine.

  5. #15
    dr bob's Avatar
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    The "rule-of-thumb" we've generally used is to get the other chemicals within 5 degrees of the developer. Any greater differential "may" result in emulsion crazing. I have never personally experienced this in 50 years of messing about so it is probably rare - but still possible.

    Warming does not seem to be a great problem if one sits a container, preferably glass, in a hot water bath (double-boiler style). Cooling is even simpler: just place an ice cube in a plastic (Zip-Lok) bag and lower it directly into the fixer, stir and monitor 'till done!
    I love the smell of fixer in the morning. It smells like...creativity!
    Truly, dr bob.

  6. #16
    SuzanneR's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the tricks everyone!!

  7. #17
    eagleowl's Avatar
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    I use a 36" thermostatically controlled tray warmer.
    It was expensive,but I can get all my chemicals to the same temperature and keep them there as long as I like.
    And,it's big enough for all 3 of my print trays.

  8. #18
    donbga's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by L Gebhardt
    I believe it is called reticulation and resulted in a mottled look to the film.
    Larry,

    If you can get any modern film to reticulate you can probably walk on water too. It pretty much can't be done short of immersing the film in boiling water followed by a liquid nitrogen bath.

    Modern films are much more resilliant to extremes of processing temperature than films of yester-year. A couple or three years ago a good friend who specializes in experimental photography couldn't get film to reticulate to save her life. She was quite frustrated since she wanted to show her students this "creative" technique. Better to use a PhotoShop filter instead!

    Don Bryant

  9. #19
    Ed Sukach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    If you can get any modern film to reticulate you can probably walk on water too. It pretty much can't be done short of immersing the film in boiling water followed by a liquid nitrogen bath.
    I've had it happen. Not on purpose, but as a result of freshly mixed fixer - not up to temperature - poured into a JOBO CPP-2 processor.
    The film was Fuji Neopan 400 - I think the developer was Satter's Zonal Pro Gamma Plus with Agfa Rapid fixer. Reticulation ... definitely.

    I didn't know I could walk on water ... well maybe - if it is cold enough...
    Carpe erratum!!

    Ed Sukach, FFP.

  10. #20
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    I.ve never seen such crap in a thread before.

    If you can get your dev to the right temperature then you stick the stop bath and fix alongside. It's really not rocket science and the hot water tap will suffice in most instances.

    It is important that all chemicals are within a couple of degree's C. Get it wrong & you won't see reticultaion but you might be surpriesd at the grainy developer :-) which you'll blame on other things.

    Ian

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