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  1. #21
    clayne's Avatar
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    I originally thought the OP wanted less contrast and more tonality in the mid-tones with generally controlled highlights. Not something I remember hc-110 being strong at.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

  2. #22
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by clayne View Post
    I originally thought the OP wanted less contrast and more tonality in the mid-tones with generally controlled highlights. Not something I remember hc-110 being strong at.
    Exposed and developed carefully HC-110 can be wonderful for moderate contrast, good mid-tones and controlled highlights.

    All of these with HC-110:

    This one (Tmax 100) I took in full mid-day sun:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/rich8155/3482482769/

    This one showing how even some fairly deep shadows and mid-tones can be controlled nicely (Plus-X), again on a bright day though mostly in the shade:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/rich8155/5642637484/

    And a people shot (again Plus-X), on a bright day again:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/rich8155/5570952175/
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

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    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

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  3. #23

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    In this respect HC-110 works best with film with a relatively long straight line like TMY or TMX, or the
    now extinct 200-speed films like Bergger 200, Fomapan (Classic) 200, and Super-XX. TMax RS will give an even straighter line with finer grain. 76 developer tends to give a more upswept curve in these same films. For general shooting I don't use any of these developers but staining pyro formulas
    which protect the highlight far better, esp when a midtone expansion is needed at the same time.
    With TMX and HP5 it's easy to blow out the highlights with significant expansion, though modern VC
    papers are much better at allowing recovery of these than the older papers were. For example, my
    older pre-pyro negs sometimes required unsharp masking to get good highlight detail in "thick" negs,
    but now split print at extreme ease.

  4. #24
    clayne's Avatar
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    I understand that HC-110 can work - but with regards to controlled highlights and emphasis on midtones there are definitely better developers for this - like D-76 or XTOL.

    However it wasn't until later in the thread that it seemed like the OP wanted something else.
    Stop worrying about grain, resolution, sharpness, and everything else that doesn't have a damn thing to do with substance.

    http://www.flickr.com/kediwah

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