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  1. #1
    Flotsam's Avatar
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    Hypo Check Expired

    I've been using some Edwal Hypo Check that is about a hundred years old. When a drop of it in my paper or film fixer turns milky I dump and remix and refix if neccesary.

    Today I check my film fix before doing some processing. Dang! the EHC turns milky. But I don't think that batch of film fixer has been used all that much so I grab a piece of clipped leader and dip it in the bottle. It clears up in less than a minute.

    Is anyone aware of an expiration to Hypo Check or should I just cease to trust it altogether?
    Last edited by Flotsam; 11-12-2004 at 07:21 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.
    =Neal W.=

  2. #2
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    When your Hypo Check Bounces

    If you've had yours for 100 years, sounds like 99 might be the limit.

    The bottle I'm using is probably 10 years old, and still works as expected. I've never heard of an expiration time, but there are a couple of things out there I haven't heard about.
    [COLOR=SlateGray]"You can't depend on your eyes if your imagination is out of focus." -Mark Twain[/COLOR]

    Ralph Barker
    Rio Rancho, NM

  3. #3
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    Same here. 20 years old.
    Watch for Loose Gravel

  4. #4
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    Are you guys sure that it is properly indicating that your fixer is exhausted?
    I've been using this stuff for the last two years, dumping my fixer on it's say-so. Now I'm thinking that I have dumped a $h*tload of perfectly good fixer down the drain.
    That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.
    =Neal W.=

  5. #5
    rbarker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flotsam
    Are you guys sure that it is properly indicating that your fixer is exhausted?
    I think so. It dissipates when I think it should based on recollection of prints or rolls/sheets processed, and stays cloudy about the same time I think I've reached the limit.

    I've been using this stuff for the last two years, dumping my fixer on it's say-so. Now I'm thinking that I have dumped a $h*tload of perfectly good fixer down the drain.
    That may be true. In fact, the six-legged frog in my back yard may prove it.
    [COLOR=SlateGray]"You can't depend on your eyes if your imagination is out of focus." -Mark Twain[/COLOR]

    Ralph Barker
    Rio Rancho, NM

  6. #6
    Flotsam's Avatar
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    Could it be that hypo check is an evil plot? A massive conspiracy to boost the sales of fixer?

    Buckle your seatbelts, people. We're through the looking glass here! If APUG mysteriously shuts down we'll have to communicate by exchanging latent images.
    That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.
    =Neal W.=

  7. #7

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    hi neil

    i use sprint fixer and i know when the edwal's says my fixer is exhausted it is about 1/2way exhausted. the hypocheck that is in the bottle is really strong "brine" ( salt water ) and the bottle says to get about 1oz of your fixer and put a few drops in - stir it up ...

    i pretty much have lost my faith in the stuff, and before i begin printing i just get a 1"square piece of film and ( with the lights on ) drop it into the fixer. when it clears i double the time and that is about how long i fix for.
    when you get the film to clear 5+ mins, you might want to consider making fresh fixer

    i usually do 2 fixer baths and i remove from the first bath at the time my "test" film clears, and put it into my second bath to do the "clean-up-fix".

    ps. edwal's hypo check was originally formulated to be used with edwal's fixer so when it says your fix is spent, it probably isn't really spent ...

  8. #8
    rjr
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    I havenīt used that particular fix test, but it sounds very much like the standard potassium iodide test recommended in classic photo literature - mix PI with water, put an amount to another amount of fixer and watch it. Shake the thing, if the milky cloud doesnīt clear up then, the fix is spent.

    So it works with any fix, not just the one mady by Edwal.

    That test has certain problems with film fix - film emulsions (actually suspensions, not emulsions) contain a high amount of silver iodide which triggers the test much too late.

    Better yet to use a two bath fix and thus youīll end up with a much higher useful life of your solutions. Let me throw in a table made by Mr. Gudzinowicz in rec.photo.darkroom, I hope the format isnīt spoiled to much:

    One-bath fixation: Commercial Archival

    Paper:

    Max. Ag conc.: 0.3 g/l 0.05 g/l
    Max. sheets/gal: 30 8x10 5 8x10
    Non-image Ag in paper: 0.005 mg/in^2 0

    Two bath fixation: Commercial Archival

    Paper:

    Bath 1:Max. Ag conc.: 2 g/l 0.8 g/l
    Max. sheets/gal: 200 8x10 70 8x10

    Bath 2:
    Max. Ag conc.: 0.3 g/l 0.05 g/l
    after 200 after 70

    Non-image Ag in paper: 0.005 mg/in^2 0

    Nach
    Michael Gudzinowicz

    I you care I may dig out a table a friend of mine made - he made a titration test with that PI solution and measured the according silver content.
    Tschüss,
    Roman

  9. #9
    Flotsam's Avatar
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    John, I think that I will have to use that method from now on.

    Roman, The format of the table is a bit off but it's easy to read the results.
    Due to space constraints and relatively low production, I will probably stick with a single bath but since you can't toss a piece of paper in the fix and watch it clear, the only thing to go by is capacity and keeping track of usage.
    Thanks for the info.
    That is called grain. It is supposed to be there.
    =Neal W.=

  10. #10
    rjr
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    Neal,

    I tried to correct it, but the browser wouldnīt accept tabs in that table. Grmpf.

    One odd thing is - you can go in the shop and buy that fix tester... but something like that isnīt available in Germany, so we slightly advanced users go to the pharmacy (or chemistry shop) and buy 1g of Potassium Iodide for 1,50EUR incl. weighting it, mix it with 20ml of water. I prefer it that way. ;->

    There isnīt much that in it that might go bad - mine is 4 years old, something is growing in there (I used an empty glass of Pesto Genovese for that and it probably wasnīt that clean then), but I donīt care since the iodide isnīt compromised by that.

    You can actually throw in a piece of paper - fix it, wash it, put it in the developer. If there is the slightest tone of fog or black, your fixer is bad.

    All in all my credo is "fixer is cheap, film, paper, images arenīt". So I take no risks.
    Tschüss,
    Roman

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