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  1. #1
    pstake's Avatar
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    Tri-X @ 1600 help!

    Went to the local recreational area yesterday, warmest day of the year. People everywhere. Got some great shots, using my Yashica FX-2 and Tessar 45, shooting Tri-x at 1600 (wanted fast shutters). I had previously processed Tri-X 1600 in Ilfotec-HC 1+31, with good results. Wanted to try Rodinal. Sharpness/acutance ... and grain is not a concern. I print mostly 5x7.

    So I came home, soup-canned the film, pre-rinsed for 3 minutes in 20 degree C, water. Developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 18.5 minutes in 20 degree C. Agitated normally with 4 gentle inversions every minute.

    They came out out foggy, with strange exposure lines along the perforations/across the negatives.

    Anyone have an idea why this might have happened.

    Needless to say, I was bummed.

  2. #2
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    I'm sure there will be better responses than this, BUT all my attempts at Tri-x and Rodinal combination have been horrible. Very foggy as you describe. And also I determined a few years ago that believe it or not, a pre soak for Tri-x actually affected my sharpness I was getting with ID-11, my usual developer. So my recommendation is to stay away from the Tri-x/Rodinal combo, or try again without pre soak. Film may still have high base fogging, that was always my determination. Do you have any other developers on hand? Good developers for pushing Tri-x would be Xtol, DD-x, Tmax developer, and D-76/ID-11 stock. I love Rodinal, but not with Tri-x.

  3. #3
    ColdEye's Avatar
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    TriX and Rodinal is my favorite, BUT only using Stand Development for an hour. Try it and you might like it. I don't presoak, and Vigorous agitation during the first minute and on the 30min mark.

  4. #4
    pstake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColdEye View Post
    TriX and Rodinal is my favorite, BUT only using Stand Development for an hour. Try it and you might like it. I don't presoak, and Vigorous agitation during the first minute and on the 30min mark.

    1+100 ... stand develop for 60 minutes?

    I've seen similar recipes elsewhere, from 60 minutes to 150 minutes at 1:100.

    Also, what do you mean by vigorous agitation?

    Brian ... I have D-76 on hand as well as Ilfotec-HC. But I really wanted to get that 3-D sharpness that you can only get with Rodinal. D-76 1+2 works well, too, with other films. I use that with Arista EDU 200 @ 100 with good results. It cuts back on the solvent action, but the development time would have to be around 30 minutes, to push Tri-X to 1600 — of course this is a guess.

    Interested to hear more about stand developing in Rodinal.

  5. #5

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    You're supposed to have comtrasty negs with this dream combo. Trix@1600 in rodinal is very special.

    I fault your fixer which might be exhausted. Refix the neg.

  6. #6
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    If you're looking for that 3D effect I would certainly try the stand development. I've used this technique in the past for night time photography and it works great. I never tried it with Tri-x though. You can also use it with D-76 1:3 with an initial agitation pattern of a few minutes then let sit for 30 minutes. Try Rodinal first though, that will give higher adjacency effects which is what you're going for.

  7. #7

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    And yes, stop the presoak. Too many bad reports. If kodak doesn't recommend it, well, it must be true. Same for stand.

  8. #8
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    Well the reason Kodak doesn't care about stand development is because stand is designed for one-roll-at-a-time... something unheardof and uncontemplated by commercial-scale operations. Stand development is about using all the chemistry of a (small) fixed volume developing solution on one roll of film. It's not something anyone would normally use for commercial or large-volume projects. Stand worked for Ansel Adams though.

  9. #9
    pstake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brian steinberger View Post
    If you're looking for that 3D effect I would certainly try the stand development. I've used this technique in the past for night time photography and it works great. I never tried it with Tri-x though. You can also use it with D-76 1:3 with an initial agitation pattern of a few minutes then let sit for 30 minutes. Try Rodinal first though, that will give higher adjacency effects which is what you're going for.


    Can anyone point me to a rundown of stand method with rodinal?

    I'll be doing 1 roll at a time, maybe two if that's possible. I use 2 reel tanks that hold 650ml for two rolls or 325 for 1 roll.

    Do you use only enough solution for 1 roll ? ie. 1+100 325ml?

    NB23 — I do re-use fixer but this batch was actually brand new, and if anything, I made it a tad strong. I'm going to try re-fixing and see if it helps.

  10. #10

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    Stand is nit recommended because it is prone to uneven development.

    The whole point of shaking is to prevent streaking amd to promote even development.

    I really wish this stand development internet craze to stop. It's not really beneficial.

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