Maybe he's out shopping for a digital camera.......
Originally Posted by Art Vandalay
Originally Posted by mikewhi
Or maybe he's just pulled his digital camera out of the Unicolor drum again - sure is hard to get those stains off the sensor!
Or someone should tell him NOT to try to put the B&W film in the digi camera.
Originally Posted by Graeme Hird
Hey Mark don't give up there's always a way to overcome these things.
Last edited by John McCallum; 11-16-2004 at 04:50 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Mark, don't give up! Tell us what you're using, and what the negs look like.
I've printed one of your negs in the neg exchange, and I thought it was fine. As I recall you're shooting 5x7" BPF 200 in Pyrocat-HD. 40 negs is hardly more than a roll of 35mm film, so keep at it. If you've got exposure under control, you're further along than most people.
To address the uneven development issue, try a presoak, if you aren't already using one.
To address the film handling issues, try a less fragile film for a while, like Tri-X, HP5+, or FP4+. One issue with the East European films is that they don't have a protective layer in general, so they need to be handled more carefully. Drum processing is a good way to do this, but even that can take some practice. I was surprised the first time I had scratches with Efke 4x5" in a Nikor tank, and I realized that I just had to pay more attention when I was removing film from the reel, and Tri-X had been letting me get away with a little sloppier technique until then.
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Just want to Ditto what David Goldfarb said. 40 negs is nothing! After 2 years or so of 4x5" and a well over a couple of hundred sheets of film I still manage to massacre at least one or two negs in every session: and that's using Ilford film in Jobo reels and a CPE-2 in a proper darkroom!
When starting out it is always a good idea to make life as easy for yourself as possible, so do as suggested and use good quality film; pre-soak; make sure you have enough developer in there, (both to physically cover the film and to provide enough developer for the film area so it does not become exhausted) and be gentle with the film. Make sure you are rolling on a level surface or you will get uneven development as more of the dev flows to one end of the tank. Reverse rotation every 30 seconds or minute. Jobo recommend the fast speed on the CPE-2. This is about 70 RPM: if you are rolling much less than this, try speeding up if your equipment allows it.
Make sure the film is not slipping in the drum and getting stuck together. You have propably already seen this but if you have not done so already, go to: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/unicolor/ for info on using the Unicolor drum.
Geez guys, I had to sleep.
-5x7-pyrocatHD-Efke PL100- 3 or 4 negs at a time. I've been using 500ML of developer. The uneven development was a perfectly straight 1 inch deep of what looked like double the development time. Like I said there was nothing different about this time from last. Maybe I am just in a funk, and getting discouraged.
Thanks for the comments guys. I realize that 40 negs are just a drop in the bucket but I never had these problems with roll film. With that I was pitching negs because the subjects were lacking not because there was physical damage or screwed up development.
I have read and reread the stuff on the LF forum and have trouble shot everything with the tank.
Thanks for the support folks
Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI
So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004
Mark, I take it you are using an 11x14 drum- were both feet on the drum in the same orientation? If you use 500ml of developer it could take awhile to fill the tank. I use an 8x10 tank and to process my 5x7 film(two at a time) and try to get it the developer in there as fast as possible. Are the streaks on the long side or the short side of the film?
Yup - know what you mean: with roll-film, you just plonk it on the reel, drop it in the tank, lid on tank, turn on the light, fill with developer and agitate, flip - flop, every 30 secs or whatever, drain, stop, drain, fix, drain, wash.... no worries!
With LF: remove negative from film holder. Drop film holder on floor (hopefully AFTER removing negative - not while dark slide is half removed and neg still in holder). Scramble about in dark trying to find film holder. Give up looking for film holder. Realise you just put negative on the dusty counter top while looking for film holder. Gingerly cast about for negative on dusty counter top. Find negative by putting great big finger print in the middle of it. Blow on negative to remove most of the dust. Spittle gets mixed in with blown air so now have dusty negative covered in spittle spray. Say naughty word.
Then, things start to go really wrong...
Been there, done that, burnt the tee shirt in fit of rage...
my $0.02 from someone who has been there, done that................
1.Start out with a film that is a little more durable and forgiving like Tri-X.
2. Learn to develop your film in trays. Even if you still insist on mucking about with the drum business, you will want to know how to do that one super-important irreplacable N+2 neg in a tray.
If you follow this advice I'm sure your "hit rate" will go way, way up.