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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by mark
    Geez guys, I had to sleep.

    -5x7-pyrocatHD-Efke PL100- 3 or 4 negs at a time. I've been using 500ML of developer. The uneven development was a perfectly straight 1 inch deep of what looked like double the development time. Like I said there was nothing different about this time from last. Maybe I am just in a funk, and getting discouraged.

    Thanks for the comments guys. I realize that 40 negs are just a drop in the bucket but I never had these problems with roll film. With that I was pitching negs because the subjects were lacking not because there was physical damage or screwed up development.

    I have read and reread the stuff on the LF forum and have trouble shot everything with the tank.

    Thanks for the support folks
    I shoot and process a lot of Efke PL100 in 120 Roll Film, 5x7 sheet and 8x10 sheet.

    I process exclusively in Pyrocat-HD. I tank process the 120 roll film and I tray process the sheet film. I get equivalent (and excellent) results in all three formats.

    Efke 100 is very susceptible to scratching and other forms of handling induced damage. There are a number of APUG threads that deal with this problem. With sheet film in a tank, many workers advocate the use of fiberglass screens to keep the film separated from the sidewall of the tank.
    Developing in a tray, I use a multi-compartment slosher tray with a single sheet of film in each compartment.

    It is important to pre-soak Efke 100. In tank development, several workers simply add the appropriate amount of concentrated Pyrocat-HD to the soak water in their tank(s) - after soaking the film for 5 minutes.

    I use two trays, one with soaking water and one with Pyrocat-HD. I place the sheets of film in my slosher tray and put it into the water bath for 5 minutes with intermittent agitation (I use a talking timer). After the 5 minute soak, I move the slosher tray into the developer and use continuous gentle agitation for 30 seconds. Then I periodically gently agitate according to the agitation plan I have decided to use in the developing session: Minimum agitation - 5 seconds per minute: Semi-Stand - 30 seconds initial gentle agitation followed by 30 seconds of gentle agitation at the halfway point.

    Hope this helps.
    Tom Hoskinson
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  2. #22

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    heh.. pardon me for giving advice on processing roll film

    I tried using a Unicolor drum too.. it's in a corner gathering dust and I now use hangers in a tupperware tub. Problem free ever since the change.

    cheers,

  3. #23
    Max
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    I'll second (or third or whatever) ditching the drum for trays.

    I did the drum thing with 8x10 for about a year. Even with a pre-soak, I still had occasional problems. One solution I heard was to fill the drum with water before putting the negative in.

    At that point, I decided to just go with the trays.

    I did have some scratches at first, but it gets better very quickly - and I've never had a problem with uneven development in the trays.

  4. #24

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    I am really good at doing one neg in a tray at a time. I can get two almost consistently but any more than that I say my prayers and hope there are no gouges and I have read and talked to people, and have been shown what to do but it never fails I get some serious damage on two of the three negatives. I switched to the Drum to control the dust and other various pieces of foreign matter that were showing up. I have to process in the bathroom that is used by three people and I live in the desert SW so dust is a major problem. I have considered using a stronger film. But I need one that will definately go N+2 as the landscape is pretty monochromatic. Will tri-X go to N+2? I am shooting PL100 at 64 and when I shot Delta 100 I shot it at 64 as well. Would I shoot tri-X at 320 or even 200?

    The streak is on the short side in an 11x14 drum, the feet are oriented and I am hand rolling it on a level floor.

    I feel better about life this morning but not much.
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  5. #25

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    I had problems with various techniques ( scratches and uneven development in trays & daylight tanks); & have finally settled on dip n dunk with metal hangers & tanks. Doesn't take much space; and I get good results using Rodinal and TF4 with Efke 25 & 100. One less area of frustration.
    van Huyck Photo
    "Progress is only a direction, and it's often the wrong direction"

  6. #26
    Max
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    Sounds like a good situation for a slosher tray or hangers...

  7. #27

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    I have found that Efke will develop evenly in BTZS type tubes. That method seems to eliminate the potential damage problems; it can be used with conventional developing procedures or with minimal agitation for enhanced edge effects. I use this on both 4X5 and 8X10 formats...so it would seem to be suitable for 5X7.

    Efke PL 100 can be developed far beyond N+2 in Pyrocat when one develops for a density range suitable for silver enlargement printing.

    This method would allow you to use a dishpan in the bathroom as your tempering bath, if you so desire. In fact much of the development can be done with room lights on.

  8. #28

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    Mark, you are just going through growing pains. You have to be patient and find the best method for you. I have tried them all and I have to say I successfully failed at the many sheets shuffle tray method. I tried it twice and like you I got gouges on the sheets from the corners, uneven development, etc, etc. IMO trying to do too many sheets in one time is a waste of time and money. Just think, if you had done one at the time, you would have gotten all of them fine. It does not pay to be impatient in the darkroom.

    TMY in pyrocat will give you all the expansion and contraction you will ever need.

    For the Unicolor tube, you need to put a lot of solution in it, if you put too little you get aerial oxidation of the developer and streaks. I have not seen your negatives but I bet if you double the amount of developer you are using you will solve your problem. Pyrocat is cheap, dont be stingy with it.....If you can, go to home depot and get the tubes they use for storing welding rods. They are awesome! Mike Pry sent to me some and they are absolutely perfect for this. If they are any color other than black, you might have to paint them, but I assure you, it is worth the time and trouble.

  9. #29

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    DOnald

    I tried the btzs tubes even with the screen I was getting scratches on the backside of the negative. I tried this before I went to the Unicolor Drum.

    It is amazing how many different ways there are to do things. Thanks folks.
    Technological society has succeeded in multiplying the opportunities for pleasure, but it has great difficulty in generating joy. Pope Paul VI

    So, I think the "greats" were true to their visions, once their visions no longer sucked. Ralph Barker 12/2004

  10. #30
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    This may be a dumb question, but do you have a roller for the drum, or are you just rolling it between the feet?

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