Re fixing, follow Ilford's recommendations. Depends on the fixer. For most rapid fixers 4-5 minutes is plenty for Pan F. With a regular fix the time would be about double that of the rapid fix.
Re stop bath, some people don't like using acid stop baths with high pH developers like Rodinal. I doubt you'd have a problem, but if you want to try a water stop instead, it works just as well if you do it properly (you need several water changes, with agitation - the water should be the same temperature as the developer and the other chemicals). A water stop is slightly slower than an acid stop bath so it might necessitate reducing the development time slightly, but not by much.
Re agitation, in general Ilford's recommended agitation scheme is a good starting point - ie agitating gently each minute. I prefer a longer initial agitation period though. Instead of only agitating for 10 seconds initially, I prefer 1 minute (some people do 30 seconds). This would normally necessitate shortening the total developing time a little bit, but that is fine. A longer initial agitation period can help prevent uneven development, particularly if one is pouring the developer into the tank after the film is in there.
You'll have to experiment and judge for yourself. Contrast can be reduced if you leave more time in between agitation cycles, for example, but it depends on the film, the developer, the dilution etc. I'd suggest starting with one minute intervals as Ilford suggests.
Originally Posted by thenikonknight
Last edited by Michael R 1974; 03-28-2012 at 04:37 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Alternately, you could use Agfa's starting recommendations, attached.
I use Pan-F at EI25, Rodinal 1+50, develop for 9:00 at 20C. Note that's with agitation for first minute then 10s per minute, not the semi-stand (once per 3-5 minutes) approaches suggested above. I don't like the dull highlight look of semi-stand.
I sometimes think that if I could only have one film and one developer it would be Pan F and Rodinal. It's beautiful, and I haven't found it hard to tame the contrast on most scenes.
I shoot it at EI 25, and develop in Rodinal 1:100 at 68F/20C for 15 minutes for normal contrast. I agitate constantly the first 30 seconds or so, then reduce it down to about once every 3 minutes if the scenes are normal.
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Agfa's recommendations are generally for contrast of 0.65 which is a bit high. The pdf uploaded by Lee is unusual in that for 1+100 it gives the resulting contrast at 15min and at 20min, and for PanF+ it's the same for 15min and 20min. Also it's interesting that it recommends 250mL of solution at 1+100 which is only 2.5mL of Rodinal. Agfa also stated elsewhere that 5mL was needed. I wonder if they did the 1+100 test with 250mL and that small quantity actually was exhausted at around 15min, which would mean perhaps that if you used 500mL then you'd end up with more contrast.
I have found Pan F in Diafine at EI 64 a wonderful combination.
Originally Posted by vpwphoto
Here are the results from my 1st attempt using this combination.
I used a Patterson 2 reel tank (two rolls were processed together). I used the following ratio:
Rodinal 1+100 for 15 mins, agitation/inversion @ every 5th minute.
1000ml water + 10ml Rodinal concentration.
Start = 3 inversion
5th Minute = 3 inversion
10th Minute = 3 inversion
15th Minute - pour out.
Stop bath 20 seconds
One quick water wash
Fixer 5 mins
5 Minute Wash - agitation constant for 1 minute cycles renewing water after every minute (Photo Flo added to last minute wash cycle).
A couple of things to note here. I don't have much experience processing B&W (as you could probably guess from the included image). I mixed up 1000mL water and 10mL Rodinal. Of course I only poured approx 550mL into the tank - I am not sure how much developer solution I should be pouring in the tank (should I change my ratio?). Also, do you start the timer while pouring the developer solution into the tank or not? I am not sure if this will make a difference.
The image is salvageable with some image editing. However, it would be better to work with a cleaner negative.
Any pointers/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I don't know where you came up with this agitation scheme but it is no good, especially with a scene of normal or low contrast. The result is a muddy, uneven, flat negative with poor shadow contrast. Go back to what I posted and refer to Ilford's instructions. Particularly if you're not experienced, start with a standard procedure.
Last edited by Michael R 1974; 03-30-2012 at 09:26 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I used the agitation advice from an earlier post in this thread.
Originally Posted by Michael R 1974
Next time I'll just use the Massive Dev chart since Ilford doesn't have instructions for ei25.