Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 68,657   Posts: 1,481,414   Online: 1091
      
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 39
  1. #21

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    29
    Hello,
    Will I be using a yellow 2 filter with the fp4, tri-x and HP5+.
    I believe the yellow filters are usually used in conjection with pan films,
    I already have a uv1 ,but does not have threads for an outside filter.
    Thanks,
    Ronald

  2. #22
    markbarendt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Ignacio, CO, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    5,276
    Blog Entries
    3
    Images
    19
    Filters are like salt, season to your own taste.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  3. #23
    Worker 11811's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Pennsylvania, USA
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,618
    Quote Originally Posted by RonaldD View Post
    Thanks Mark,
    on the Kodak site for D76, the development time is for a 36 roll.
    What do you change for a 24 roll?
    I also read somewhere that if you have a condenser head on the enlarger( I don't have one yet, but it seems like something that I should know)
    that you must reduce the exposure time when processing the negative by 15%. What's this stick in the bicycle spokes?
    Ronald
    As far as I know the only thing that changes with different sized rolls is the amount of chemistry needed.
    There is a minimum amount of active chemicals that needs to be in the mix for each square unit of film. Other than that, there is no difference.
    The amount of chemistry needed is usually stamped on the bottom of your developing tank. Use the amount listed and don't worry. Time and temperature should be per manufacturer's spec until you have enough experience to be able to judge your negatives and decide if you want to vary the amount of time. Again, just do what the instructions say.

    Condenser versus diffuser... Don't even worry about it.
    Condensers produce more contrast, all other things equal, but you don't even need to think about that yet. When you make a print on an enlarger, there is no set time for exposure. Exposure time is determined empirically for each negative. No two negatives will print exactly the same. For contrast, you're going to determine that, empirically, for each negative, too. You'll use different filters or settings on each negative.

    Not to sound rude... but... I think you're putting the cart before the horse.
    The best thing you can do for yourself, right now, is to go get some film and soot some pictures. Develop them and look at the results.
    Until you do that... Until you get some film in your hands, you're basically just spinning your wheels in the sand.

    Like the advertisements say: "Just do it!"
    Randy S.

    In girum imus nocte et consumimur igni.

    -----

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/randystankey/

  4. #24

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Central Virginia, USA
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    540
    For Medium Format Film, Acros 100 is 2.69 / roll from Adorama. Ultrafine xTreme 400 is 26.90 / 10 pack on Amazon. Both are good films and I have a few hundred rolls of each in my fridge. I also shoot TMAX 400 typically pushed and I love me some Delta 3200 at 1600 or 3200 which is 5.29 per roll at Adorama right now.

    For developers, I prefer TMax RS Replenished which will do something like 60 + rolls for $13 and Rodinal for stand development, a 500ml bottle will do something like 70-80 rolls. You can skip stop bath and just use water, heck I do just because the faucet is easier to deal with than stop bath. For Delta 3200, you might want something else, I use XTOL.

    D76 is a standard which can't be beat and there is A LOT of information out there about it.

  5. #25

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    29
    So here it goes, all at Henry's in Toronto.
    Kodak D-76, 128 oz powder $ 6.99
    Kodak Indicator Stop 16 oz $6.99
    Kodak Fixer Powder 1 Gal $6.99
    Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz $8.99
    Does this cover the ratio without
    buying more of one item?
    It also mentions Rapid Fix Hardener; where does that fit in
    and do I need it?
    Re- plenisher, I am asking to make sure but
    you probably will tell me to forget this for now.
    Am I missing something as far as chemicals is concerned. Little additive drops of some sort?
    All I need now is to find a site either forum or personal
    that tells or shows me the steps and what I need to do
    and what is not necessary, stuff like to squeege or not to squeege; here is the question
    Without having to bother all of you for each individual steps.
    Trays and clothespin and what not I ( think ) I will figure that out.
    Oh, what kind of cannister and inserts, plastic or metal?
    If this is enough to finish a few rolls of BW 24 lenght I can see that once being able to finish this at home is still a lot cheaper than
    having it shippped to a lab in Southern Ontario.
    Sincerely,
    Ronald

  6. #26

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Allentown PA area
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    261
    It would also not be a bad thing to call Freestyle and talk to some of the sales people, they all seem to use film and are very knowledgeable. I have found them to be quite helpful and patient. When I was first getting into developing my own black and white after doing it at my local CC, they helped me determine what to buy the equivalent to the Sprint chemicals the college darkroom was using. It should go without saying however that if one does call them for help, to buy at least some of your supplies from them.

  7. #27

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    29
    I checked Freestyle ,
    that is one fantastic place for photo enthusiast.
    Unfortunately, I am in Ontario, Canada and not Ontario California.
    But thanks for the tip anyhow
    Ronald

  8. #28
    Newt_on_Swings's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    NYC
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,698
    Quote Originally Posted by RonaldD View Post
    Kodak D-76, 128 oz powder $ 6.99
    Kodak Indicator Stop 16 oz $6.99
    Kodak Fixer Powder 1 Gal $6.99
    Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz $8.99
    Thats a good basic list of what you need to get going. I would suggest getting a rapid fixer, they are easier to mix, work faster, and wash out easier. I like the Ilford Rapid Fix product, but Kodak makes it as well in a two part (you dont need the hardener part really). You do not have to stick to a single manufacturer's product line and can mix and match as long as you use them as indicated and in the correct order. (dev, stop, fix, wash)

    My favorite tanks are the Patterson Super System 4 plastic tanks and reels, you would want at least a 2 reel sized tank. If you can find the plastic reels with the large insert tabs for 120 film, get them, they are very helpful for beginners learning how to get film onto reels.

    Get yourself a a graduated beaker or at least a measuring cup with lines for mL and Oz. and a thermometer too.

  9. #29

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    29
    Thanks Newt on Swings,
    Another new term Wetting Agents,
    what are they and are they needed?
    Thanks,
    Ronald

  10. #30
    cmacd123's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Stittsville, Ontario
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    928
    Quote Originally Posted by RonaldD View Post
    So here it goes, all at Henry's in Toronto.
    Kodak D-76, 128 oz powder $ 6.99
    Kodak Indicator Stop 16 oz $6.99
    Kodak Fixer Powder 1 Gal $6.99
    Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz $8.99
    Does this cover the ratio without
    buying more of one item?
    It also mentions Rapid Fix Hardener; where does that fit in
    and do I need it?
    Kodak fixer is the old standard, Most folks these days use Rapid fixer. Kodak makes a rapid fixer which comes with a hardener, they alos make "kodafix soution." It henrys I find the cheaper fix is the Ilford Rapid fix. One bottle makes 5 liters and is twice as fast, also you can mix it up as needed.
    the ILFORD RAPID FIXER 1L TO MAKE 5LT Webcode: 420ILF022 is 11.99, while the 500ml Webcode: 420ILF018 is 7.95 so it is a touch cheaper by the liter. I normaly keep the 1 liter bottle in, and buy a new one for stock once I start to use one. It keeps very well.

    Quote Originally Posted by RonaldD View Post
    Re- plenisher, I am asking to make sure but
    you probably will tell me to forget this for now.
    Replenisher is only practical for Labs that run a lot of film. When you do small quantities it is best to use the developer for one roll and throw it away.

    Quote Originally Posted by RonaldD View Post
    Am I missing something as far as chemicals is concerned. Little additive drops of some sort?
    That is the basics, many folks will skip the stop bath for film, but it is used for prints so no harm and it is cheep.

    Quote Originally Posted by RonaldD View Post
    All I need now is to find a site either forum or personal
    that tells or shows me the steps and what I need to do
    and what is not necessary, stuff like to squeege or not to squeege; here is the question
    Without having to bother all of you for each individual steps.
    Trays and clothespin and what not I ( think ) I will figure that out.
    Oh, what kind of cannister and inserts, plastic or metal?
    If this is enough to finish a few rolls of BW 24 lenght I can see that once being able to finish this at home is still a lot cheaper than
    having it shippped to a lab in Southern Ontario.
    Sincerely,
    Ronald
    That will provide the chemistry to develop your negs, You will need a tank to develop the film in. (you stick the film in the tank in total darkness, and then you can use the the chemicals in teh light) our pals henrys has the AP UNIVERSAL PLASTIC TANK W/2 REELS Webcode: 348APA005 which is as good as any for a beginner.. you may have to get the local store to get it in for you. To hang the film wooden clothespins will do.

    BTW, Don't discount freestyle. I order a bunch of stuff from them a couple of times a year. if you shoot enough film the shipping can be worth it.
    Charles MacDonald
    aa508@ncf.ca
    I still live just beyond the fringe in Stittsville

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin