Now ready to order film and developer
AS I mentionned in the MF thread I am getting ready to first start developing black and white with my Nikon FE2 to see how I get along.
I am not worried at this moment about how I will process the negatives into prints.
It seems that there is an array of different emulsions and developper.
Infact; it is overwhelming.
I have come up with a few, please let me know of your suggestions as I have never ever tried this before.
But apparently the sense of achievement can counterreact the learning curve.
Firstly, what's with the solvent, staining, high accutance on developpers, can't find anything on this.
Or, perhaps I should not worry about this at first.
And what about, developpers that apparently ( clump on the silver sulfides ) more than others.
Please remember that I am at the moment using a 35mm and some negatives if adequate I will probably try and enlarge
to a 8x10. so grain is on my mind since I do not have a MF yet.
I was thinking Ilford FP4 125 asa
or Delta 100 asa or HP5 plus 400asa.
In the kodak Tmax 100-400 asa or tri-x 400 asa.
Worried about the 400 grain ?
I will also be using the speed as per the film that is suggested, push, pull, and shove is too much at this moment.
DEVELOPPERS /// ID-`11 seems nice , perceptol, DD-x
Kodak Extol. I already have a roll of T -max unopened and would be nice to have a developper for both Kodak and Ilford,
But if you guys and gals suggest just one type of film and developper to start with that is easier for a beginner , tha'ts fine.
Any and all of your help is greatly appreciated.
Sorry for the long post; it is just boggling at the moment with all the possibilities.
PS Inasmuch as there is info on the subject I am making a quest for information as it pertains to only 35mm at the moment
Last edited by RonaldD; 04-21-2012 at 05:44 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Get ready for the deluge of everybodys favorite combos. Any of the films you have listed along with tried and true Kodak D-76 will get you started. If you don't want to mix powdered chems, then HC-110 should suffice. IMHO, D-76 is probably the best place to start as all other develpers are compared to it and ease of use.
Films I have used and can recommend: Panf+ & FP4+, both from Ilford. Fuji Acros 100 - Possibly the cheapest film from the big three.
Developers: D76/ID11 - Virtually the same developer from the Kodak and Ilford stables. Used at 1+3, it gives me the benchmark to judge all others by.
My recommended combo: FP4+ and D76.
There is sooooo much out there, but the best advice I received is pick one developer and stick with it, shoot some film to see if there is some differences that you enjoy. For eg, there are two types of film, classic and tgrain, classic are like your Tri X, HP5, FP4; the tgrain are modern films with a tgrain (tabular instead of cubic) that give a finer grain, such as Acros 100, Delta 100/400/3200, Tmax 100/400/3200. Now the hard part is you need to figure out which of the two types you like. Many like classic, others tgrain, but a lot has to do with what you photograph too. I have found that I like two speeds of film a lot but I always dev in Xtol, I like that it is more enviornmentally kind than others and is quite able to be pushed. I have tried a variety of stocks to arrive at the two main stocks that I like to use depending on the lighting - a slow one and a fast one. I think the choice is up to you, and it really often depends on what you shoot. Bulk loading 35mm also led me down a path if you are condidering loading bulk, it sure drops the price but the options are less...
Welcome to Apug and analog, the possiblities are endless and quite fun to figure out your way!!!
You are all helping, appreciated.
At this moment I am worried about the grain because of the 35mm size.
So I suppose the Fp4 would be the best of both world.
Lower asa than HP5 and tri-x so less grainy, but not as fine as the T emulsions.
Also, apparently easier for a beginner to handle than the T emulsions.
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D76 or the Ilford version called ID-11 is almost considered the "Standard" developer, that all others are compared to, so it is a good choice. The two are identical for all practical Purposes.
ID-11 / d76 is listed as a recommended developer for almost any film on the market, even obscure Chinese and eupoean brands.
The other popular ones are Kodak's HC-110 and Rodinal. Both of which are Highly concentrated liquids which are mixed up just before use. Some folks find they are more convenient that way. Rodinal is known for Very high sharpness, but also move visible grain. But If you have ID-11 already you are good to go. One or the otehr of the Kodak or Illford D76/ID-11 developer will be less expensive depending on the local market
As far as Film, HP5 is an excellent general purpose B&W film. It is often a few cents cheaper than the FP4, perhaps because many photographers use it as their only film. if you are planning to only go to 8X10 prints I don't think you need to worry so much about the grain.
Last edited by cmacd123; 04-21-2012 at 08:55 PM. Click to view previous post history.
Reason: added a thought
I still live just beyond the fringe in Stittsville
Can you use a flash with these two films?
you can certainly use flash with any film.
as long as it is used skillfully
Don't let grain scare you. Embrace it.
It is what makes silver based photography beautiful imo.
You might prefer a T grain film in 400 if you are really adverse to grain but be aware that T grain films can be a bit more fussy when it comes to processing. It is less forgiving.
About grain in film....
I wouldn't be too concerned with grain because even with 35mm Tri-X 400 enlarged to 11x14 (I do this routinely), grain is not obtrusive. Even though the name is the same, Tri-X of today is not the same "stuff" as we had several decades ago. Tmax 400 is about as fine grained as traditional ASA 100 film. This is just by developing with D-76 in standard way. No tricks necessary. If you are thinking (if you are in my age group) of old film, you will be pleasantly surprised. With high speed shutter available in 35mm gear, I pretty much have standardized on Tmax 400 and Tri-X film.
Yes, you can use flash... why not?
About developers... I started with XTOL and settled with D-76. It just works and to be honest, I really don't see much difference in results. When I started, I studied and reviewed lots of technical data and picked the "best." I wouldn't stress over technical merit of each developer.
Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?
Tri-X Pan 400 developed in D-76 @ 1:1 has served millions of photographers well for decades. I don't see any reason why it won't serve you just as well.
You're only going to be enlarging to 8x10. Grain won't be an issue if you don't crop in too much.
My photography teacher in college had a hard on for people who cropped too much. He would often rant about how you should be composing your photos in the camera, not on the enlarging easel.
If he caught you cropping in too much and you didn't learn to compose in-camera when he told you, he would give you a special filed out aperture plate that showed the film all the way to the borders of the negative and order you to print your next assignment full frame with the sprocket holes showing.
Anyhow, I digress... For 8x10, Tri-X will be fine.
If you want a slower film with less grain, Fuji Neopan 100 Acros is a good choice. Again, D-76 @ 1:1.
If you don't want to use D-76, XTOL is a good choice. XTOL works well with Neopan.
Anything from Ilford will also serve you well. I like Pan F+. If you watch your exposure and development to keep the contrast down, you can get some really tasty pictures with it.
Honestly, I think you're over thinking it. Just pick one and stick with it for a while.
Do at least a dozen rolls of film with the same combination of film and developer. Then collect all your negatives, contact sheets and prints together, sit down at the breakfast table with your film and a cup of coffee and look everything over, then decide what you like or don't like.
After you have done at least a dozen rolls of film the same way (I'd probably do a couple dozen) THEN decide whether you want to change to another product.
You can talk about the properties of this film or that film or the benefits of one developer over another, all day long, until you are blue in the face but it won't mean a hill of beans unless you have actually held some film in your hands and looked at it and have seen the results.
Bottom line: Just do it.