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  1. #1

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    Efke 820, educate me please!

    I took a trip to photography mecca last week (B&H) and picked up a few rolls of Efke "Aurora" 820, one 35mm and 2 120 to play with. So someone give me a crash course please. How are you shooting/developing these?

    There is a lot of "data" on the web, but it seems most of what I see relating to exposure never references development. I've seen suggestions to rate the film anywhere from 1.5 ISO to 25 ISO with an R72 filter. That's 5 stops difference, and ??? how development affects that. I have D76, HC-110, Diafine, and Perceptol in stock. I'm not particularly concerned with exposure time as long as it isn't into minutes.

    I'd love to hear some of your experiences with shooting and developing this film. At $13/roll I'd like to minimize the experiments!

  2. #2
    wildbill's Avatar
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    the massive development chart has times for many developers. you'll need to run your own tests though as you're going to get dozens of suggestions and we don't know how you're printing it.
    I rate it at 1.5 in bright sun. Bracketing is for sissies.
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

  3. #3
    djhopscotch's Avatar
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    Time of year and location will vary amount of ir, guess n'test is the only real option.

    Sent using Tapatalk

  4. #4

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    Thanks for the quick replies. So those that have shot it find the MDC times and ISO's to be accurate? I realize one has to bracket unless one has a lightmeter actually modified for IR, but I plan on shooting mostly in bright sun so IR levels should be reliable.

  5. #5

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    I haven't used the film very often, but I did find the emulsion unusually sticky and dust-prone after development. I suspect that I was careless and let the temperature of the wash get too high, but I have also read that a hardening fixer might help.

    Where I was able to clear the negatives, though, the results were very satisfying.

  6. #6
    DWThomas's Avatar
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    So far I've used one roll of the 120 non-aura version. Using a 720 nM filter, my results pointed toward using an incident reading at ISO 100 and increasing exposure about six stops (about ISO 1.5). I developed in HC110 dil E (1+47) for 9 minutes at 68ºF. This was just a quick follow-up after running several rolls of the Rollei IR400 on a little project. I have some more EFKE 820 in the fridge that I'll get back to "sometime this summer."

    I believe the aura/non-aura is just a matter of antihalation coating, so development should be the same.

  7. #7
    EASmithV's Avatar
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    1.5 with a R72. MDC is right on. In bright sun, maybe iso 2 if you want to keep some of your highlights, but seems IR shooters don't like em...
    www.EASmithV.com

    "The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera."— Dorothea Lange
    http://www.flickr.com/easmithv/
    RIP Kodachrome

  8. #8
    bsdunek's Avatar
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    With the R72 filter, I find that one second at f16 is about right in bright sun. I don't try to use a light meter as they don't read IR.
    For developing I've used Ilford Ilfosol 3, diluted 1:9 for about seven minutes. I too had trouble with dust with the EFKE film, but the tonality is great. I tried Rollei IR, and had no problems, but I don't think the IR effect is quite as strong. It is a nice film though
    Bruce

    Moma don't take my Kodachrome away!
    Oops, Kodak just did!


    BruceCSdunekPhotography.zenfolio.com

  9. #9

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    Thanks for the replies everyone. The more intense IR effect of the Efke was why I chose that over the Rollei.

  10. #10
    wildbill's Avatar
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    I don't own an IR modified meter.
    While I've read about them, my results don't require one at this point. Don't forget about reciprocity after 1 second. That's been covered elsewhere.
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

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