I have one from Lloyd which takes 100f of film. Given that I do not have very sophisticated darkroom, I have no any idea how to manage the rest of the film in-case this cinerex comes in 300f.
OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
Rolleicord Va: Humble.
Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.
In a dark place, like a changing bag or a sealed off closet, you just grab one end and roll half of the 300ft onto anything round, 1-2 inches in diameter, 24mm wide, piece of tape to hold it on. After you do this you put one of them in the loader, and one back in the darkbag it came in (tape it shut).
It couldn't be much easier.
Oh and a red safelight is ok too in the closet/dark place. It won't change the film any.
(P.S. no one has anything but a 100ft loader, they just happen to fit 50-100ft more than they say with this film)
Last edited by Field; 05-14-2012 at 03:48 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I load it rather basic, in the dark, I open the box Field sent it to me, then open the black bag, pull out one arms length (which for me is about 13 frames), cut it, tape the head to the wall, tape the tail to a bulk film spool with masking tape, wind up, and done with it....easy as pie. I have a bulk loader but I figure I can wait till it gets to about 100 or so feet and then put it on there.
So I got another winner, Xtol 1:1 (not replenished), 12:45 mins, ASA 25, with yellow filter (K2), Yashica Linx, shot at (I believe) f1.4, 1/500....
Choresday, which is the day before Thursday, which is also a chores day in early winter
While doing wood pile chores I made a few snapshots with the tiny Retina, which is giving sharper results with every film used, or I am getting used to it
I cut a 21ex length exposed at 40asa into three portions for development in replenished D76d for 5 mins at 20 degrees, Leitz two bath, basically D23ish followed by an alkali bath and Rodinal 1:100 plus one small dead spider per 300ml for half an hour
Two bath gives what appears to be the nicest negs, that was 3 mins in sol'n A with almost constant aggravation at 20 degrees, followed by a still bath of sulphite and carbonate for four mins to bring up the shadows
The Rodinal at 1:100 is almost as soft as the two bath - I am aware I was only processing a small portion of film, so it was not getting ad knackered as it would with 36ex in the same amount of dev' - I will have to do more work to determine the effect of dead spiders on the results
Looked at wet the D76d is still too harsh for real use even down to 5 mins dev' and the other two are usable
Note on the developers
The D76dwas made up in 1985 and has been very carefully replenished ever since, with regular zone VII tests to check its quality
The Leitz two bath from the BKP Almanac 1954 is 5g Metol, 100g Sulphite to 1000ml water, bath two is 6g Sulphite, 15g Carbonate to 1000ml water - I dev'd 4 miins with serious agitation in the first bath followed by 5 mins in bath two with no agitation at all - The idea is that the highlights develop in the first bath and the shadows build up in bath two - The metol in the highlights quickly exhausts, hence no agitation in B2
The spider in the Rodinal 1:100 was not intentional - I have not used Rodinal for about 20 years, so tried it for half an hour with one minute serious agitation followed by abandoning it on the back of the wet bench for the rest of the time[/B]
Pix later, after the negs are dry
Last edited by John Austin; 05-16-2012 at 07:08 AM. Click to view previous post history.
A few more using Rodinal 1-50 (16 EI) for 7 minutes with a prewash and agitation 1 per minute. Taken with Canon EOS 3 w/ 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 lens
Loving the contrast I get from this film. Next batch will be 6.5 minutes in Rodinal
Last edited by dances_w_clouds; 05-16-2012 at 11:59 AM. Click to view previous post history.
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Wow. Loving this. I think I see here a combo of EI and times I'm going go with in using Rodinal.
Originally Posted by dances_w_clouds
Anyone looking to do the same please realize the agitation of Rodinal greatly changes how it works. I prefer less agitation becaues it extends the development time and lets me fine tune development.
That is one of the differences I have found between Rodinal and the Canadian version Blazinal. With this developer you NEED to agitate every minute to prevent uneven developing. I have tried it with many different films and found I have far better development WITH agitation of 1 per minute. I am going to keep reducing my development times even more. 6 minutes next and leaving the 16 EI . Sooner or later I will find the minimum time. I have given up on the small test rolls (-20 ish frames) up to the over 30+ frms so I may need another large roll before the year has ended. THNKZ
Last edited by dances_w_clouds; 05-17-2012 at 02:22 AM. Click to view previous post history.
I tried 8 minutes at 1 minute agitations for EI50, too much development with Rodinal (Adonal).
Here is a tip for everyone. (by Kodak) For every stop more exposure decrease development time by 1 minute. For every stop less increase by 2 minutes. I'd say my EI25 at 7 minutes was at the same development as the EI50 following this, I just have to agitate a lot less. The rule appears pretty accurate for this film. I'm going to give my next roll 3 minute intervals for agitation and see if 7 or 8 minutes works out. I agree the secret to this is to find the minimium development to make it beautiful and good for making immaculate prints like the one sent to me. I can say though juding by my last scans of overdeveloped, they where not that bad because skin tones where realistic, no blow outs, and various metal objects where accurate. It was close.
Too bad there isn't enough of this film to submit times to the Massive Dev Chart!
I cut back on my agitations (2 sec per min) EI 20 and it appears that developing in Rodinal (1-50) for 6.5 minutes seems to work well and I will be staying to this time.