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  1. #41
    Field's Avatar
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    Mark your stuff is amazing...

    I'll try less without filter. But I got to say that at 5.5 it was basically just white, nothing there. I can try 6, since 6.5 was a bit much. That is a narrow window. Oh well Tmax is free for me ATM.

    I hope someone with a lens or camera that I want to trade some of this stuff for, will look at some of your pictures!

  2. #42

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    I use replenished Xtol, but mixed fresh today so ran some tests with that to find a developing time that should be more helpful to others.

    With fresh undiluted Xtol I got about a 6 to 6 1/2 minute time at 70 degrees. 6' is a pretty good match for the results I'm getting in replenished. That time holds the contrast of the negative back for the high contrast scenes I've been shooting so far. 6 1/2 minutes at 70 degree is probably fine under more normal light.

    I just didn't have the time to sort out Xtol 1:1. Comparing to other times on the Xtol charts, it looks like that should come in around 8.25 to 9 minutes for results comparable to the straight Xtol times above.

    This is not a very forgiving film as far as exposure or development; it is worth running a bracket test roll, then clip tests to find what will give you the results you want.
    Last edited by Mark Crabtree; 05-05-2012 at 10:20 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #43
    Field's Avatar
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    Well at EI25 any film is likely to be more problematic with strong dillutions of developer. For example they don't even list times for Adox/Efke 50 with Tmax 1:4 because the window is so narrow under 5 minutes I think.

    If I go with Rodinal at 1:50 or 1:100 my area of 5.5-6.5 to play in becomes several minutes wide.

  4. #44
    zsas's Avatar
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    Still rainy and cloudy out here, was able to do a quick test roll of about 15 frames. Here they are drying, not thin negs anymore!!! I developed by inspection with a red light in the darkroom. Checked at 5, 10, 11, 12, 13. Then at 13 they looked nice and baked well....

    Note, if you are going to open your tank and look at this film, please make sure you have good goggles on since the film can splatterer and what not while unrolling and glancing at it as my goggles saved me already.

    Shot it at 25 with a yellow (K2) filter (which takes one stop) on my Yashica Linx 14E f1.4. Xtol 1:1, 14 mins. They look spectacular (at a glance as they dry)....time will tell...hope to get a scan of em today and if I am lucky get a printing session too today....

    Last edited by zsas; 05-06-2012 at 06:36 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Andy

  5. #45
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    Mark glad to hear your tests continue. I dont believe I have read what you shoot this stuff at, 25, 50?
    Andy

  6. #46
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich815 View Post
    Ok I shot two short rolls of the Cinerex yesterday on a field trip with my son's 4th grade class to Angel Island in San Francisco bay.

    As mentioned I shot it in my Contax G2 and used primarily the 45 Planar but also the 28 Biogon and 90 Sonnar. It was a bright, clear sunny day and I set the camera for 40 ASA but adjusted +2/3 to +1 to "over-expose" for anything close to being backlit.

    Developed it just now in HC-110 dilution B at 20C for 5 min with 2x agitation every 30 seconds. It's hanging to dry right now but let me say this: contrast!!!! Crisp and sharp, sharp, sharp (with those lenses of course) but my god the negs look like they were etched in granite. Will scan some tonight. Fingers crossed on highlights being preserved.

    Right now am thinking 50 ASA next time and perhaps HC-110 but dilution H and 6.5 min just to see how the contrast is tamed with more dilute developer and some pull back in time. Will see if this opinion stays after the scans later...
    Ok, here are some of my examples as developed and exposed in the above post:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SF Commute Angelk Island ContaxG2 45Planar 28Biogon 90Sonnar AgfaCinerexIC1N ortho HC-110dilB 5m.jpg 
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Name:	SF Commute Angelk Island ContaxG2 45Planar 28Biogon 90Sonnar AgfaCinerexIC1N ortho HC-110dilB 5m.jpg 
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ID:	50584

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SF Commute Angelk Island ContaxG2 45Planar 28Biogon 90Sonnar AgfaCinerexIC1N ortho HC-110dilB 5m.jpg 
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ID:	50578

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SF Commute Angelk Island ContaxG2 45Planar 28Biogon 90Sonnar AgfaCinerexIC1N ortho HC-110dilB 5m.jpg 
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ID:	50582

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SF Commute Angelk Island ContaxG2 45Planar 28Biogon 90Sonnar AgfaCinerexIC1N ortho HC-110dilB 5m.jpg 
Views:	63 
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ID:	50583
    Last edited by Richard Sintchak (rich815); 05-06-2012 at 03:28 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  7. #47
    zsas's Avatar
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    Great work Rich!
    Andy

  8. #48
    zsas's Avatar
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    After my fourth roll I think I hit my stride!! Thankfully the weather has been the same for all four rolls thus far (gray, cloudy and rainy). This last roll I shot at 25 with a yellow filter (K2). I developed in Xtol (not replenished) 1:1 for 14 minutes. This film when hit right is beautiful. I was sure jazzed to hit a few.

    Camera – Yashica Linx f1.4:

    Scans (auto no adjustments on my end):

    A: 1/125 f1.4


    B: 1/250 f1.4


    Check out how sensitive this film is only one stop difference between C and D?! Wow, night and day.

    C: 1/250 f2


    D: 1/25 f1.4


    I think this film works exceptionally on overcast days! Like all ortho not the best on skin tones (it’s a bit harsh, I saw a neg of a shot of my wife and it does not do justice to her skin color – more pink/red looks dark and harsh, it would work great for the Marlboro Man through)…

    I think like others have shown, a filter is probably needed (I am enjoying my yellow K2).

    I am now dreading shooting in sun, a whole other set of rules.

    Look forward to more images from others!
    Last edited by zsas; 05-06-2012 at 06:35 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: fix links
    Andy

  9. #49
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    Thanks zsas, like yours too.

    I was surprised to find the highlights in mine were fine for the most part but the shadows went deep real quick. Good news is the contrast was not as harsh as I feared shooting on such a bright and contrasty day. I look forward to trying it on a more overcast day and under more evenly lit circumstances.

    Will be tweaking more with some other developers too. But I think this will prove a very nice film to work with and with great potential. With 300' to work thru there's lots of time and rolls to play with! About 1800 more exposures to be "exact"!
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  10. #50

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    Richard and Andy, it is great to see you two getting good results with this film. I'd thought the same about overcast light; this film would be great for what John Sexton calls "quiet light". You can process longer in flat light and so get a bit more speed too.

    For better or worse, I am drawn to sunny days even though the light is often less than ideal when you have to cram all that range onto a sheet of paper. I think Sexton's book "Listen to the Trees" was the first I realized how hard I make things shooting in that sort of light. But I'm attracted to things for the way they look, and love stark glaring light. Hopefully I will have a chance to explore some other light too. It can be interesting to see how scenes are transformed when you can let the film/paper system loose and not have to constantly fight contrast.

    The Agfa does work fine in contrasty light too, but needs to be exposed to hold the shadows with development cut to keep the contrast down. Great for bokeh fans, though the slow speed can get to be pretty limiting otherwise. But nice fine grain and good tonality when you get the combination right. The shot of the Chevy I posted is in full blazing sun on the white paint and some deep shadow. You really have to not overdevelop to keep those highlights. I'm shooting 1/125 @ 5.6. I'd call it EI 25, but it depends on how you are metering. It could even stand a touch more exposure, but there is virtually no latitude for underexposure in that situation (if you want shadow detail).

    Thanks again to Field for the chance to use this film. Beyond the cheap shooting and good results, ortho is something I had already wanted to explore to help understand the tonality of some older photos.
    Last edited by Mark Crabtree; 05-06-2012 at 08:49 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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