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  1. #1
    MortenBS's Avatar
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    Adox CHS 25 in HC 110, thin negs.

    Hello!

    I've ben out shooting some long exposures with my Mamiya RZ.

    The first roll of Adox CHS 25 came out really thin and underexposed.
    I developed it in HC-110 dilution B for 7 minutes agitation first 30s and then 5s every 30s as recommended on the bottle.

    It seems as the contrast is high, but the negs are too thin and underexposed.

    The massive devchart suggests dilution H 7 mins for iso 50, but my logic tells me you need more time in the developer with a thinner diluted developer. Am I right?

    Any tips on how to make the next roll come out better with this developer? With more shadow detail.

    I think I might have underexposed the film a bit, as result of a miscalculation of filter factors and reciprocity failure in the field.

    I also have the Moersch eco developer at hand, which I've enjoyed very much with other films. but no developing time for the adox film.

  2. #2
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    First you get exposure right.

    Then you worry about developer.

    Shoot one more roll of this film, but expose it properly. Bracket if you must.
    Without getting exposure right in the first place, it makes zero sense to analyze your developer.
    An analogy would be that when you build a house you start with the foundation, (which in this case is your exposure). Then you work your way up.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #3
    MortenBS's Avatar
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    Yes of course that makes sense.

    The thing is, that I've used this film with good results before, but not with this developer. It's exposed same way as I use to.
    I have one more roll already exposed and after seeing the first come come out really thin, I would like to push the next one 1 stop.
    Any advise for doing this would be appreciated.

  4. #4
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    How long is long exposure?
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
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  5. #5
    MortenBS's Avatar
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    Exposures ranged from 1-3 minutes. In sunlight with a polarizer, yellow filter and ND 3.0 filter.
    I've compensated for reciprocity failure with 2/3rds of a stop.

  6. #6
    vedmak's Avatar
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    why do you need ND filter if your resulting exposure ends up being 3 min?
    Multum egerunt, qui ante nos fuerunt, sed non peregedunt.

  7. #7
    MortenBS's Avatar
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    The ND filter cuts 10 stops of light. That's what makes me able to get a 3 minute exposure in broad daylight. I like to do landscapes with very long exposures to get the clouds moving across the sky.

  8. #8

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    I haven't used this film, but it is a more "conventional" emulsion than many current films. Reciprocity adjustments are therefore likely quite substantial. Even a film like TMX with good reciprocity performance requires about 2 minutes of exposure for an indicated time of 1 minute.

  9. #9
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    I think you have more reciprocity failure than you might expect going on. Consider using Fuji Acros instead would be my first thought.
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  10. #10
    MortenBS's Avatar
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    I think I'm right on the reciprocity failure. I read some test from the photo.net forum with the same results as on the adox website.
    I developed another roll in HC-110 dilution H for 15 minutes as suggested by a flickr member. This one came out better with lower contrast and more dense negatives with more details.
    Thanks for the replies.

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