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Thread: Ir Photography

  1. #21
    Aggie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woolliscroft
    I am going to make myself very unpopular here, but I have had better IR results with a D.....l camera than I did with film. Sorry, I guess the things had to be useful for something. Apparently, it only works with some models. I have an Olympus C8080 which is particularly good in this role.

    David.
    You had a good result since it is a simulation of what IR woiuld be,
    Non Digital Diva

  2. #22
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    I use the non "aura" version of Macophot 820 IR in sheet film (4x5). I metered available light and used a red filter and found that I needed to open up 4 stops instead of 3 to get "the effect". I also have used the wratten 87 filter and opened up 5 stops and had good results. I won't use an f-stop smaller than f32 on large format.

    With Konica 750, you can put a 25 red filter on lens and meter thru the lens if you have that capability. F-stop is almost irrelevant, but the impact decreases with the smaller aperture...usually keep it at f22 on med. fmt.

    Yes, you can use rodinal on Macophot. Check the digitaltruth massive development chart online.

    The best thing about IR is that while a lot of photographers abandon shooting during full midday sun, you can be out there getting terrific shots!!! And as for the wind, you can use it to your advantage during long shots to get a rather ethereal look. Also, the Konica 750 has a really nice smooth grain...some portrait photogs like to use it b&w portraits.

    Have fun.

    S

  3. #23
    roy
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    Ir photography

    Are there any benefits in using staining developers with the different types of I/R film ? Which film and developer combination do frequent users consider would give the best effects in the current growing season ?
    Roy Groombridge.

    Cogito, ergo sum.
    (Descartes)

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by roy
    Are there any benefits in using staining developers with the different types of I/R film ? Which film and developer combination do frequent users consider would give the best effects in the current growing season ?
    Absolutely! PMK 1:1:100 @77F for 12.5 minutes with Kodak HIE. Highlights are not blown and shadows aren't blocked. Try 1/60 to 1/125 @ f11 - f16 with a 25 or 29 red filter.

    Don Bryant

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aggie
    You had a good result since it is a simulation of what IR woiuld be,
    Aggie,

    Using a digital camera to capture IR exposures is no simulation. Used with an opaque IR filter such as an 87C or 89B record light in the IR range. However the exposures tend to be quite long and may have a fair amount of noise. Also the captures have to be desaturated to yield a neutral monotone rendering. Some digital cameras can be modified by removing the IR filter covering over the CCD or CMOS array, improving the sensitivity to IR light making exposures much shorter.

    Hope this helped,

    Don Bryant

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by donbga
    Absolutely! PMK 1:1:100 @77F for 12.5 minutes with Kodak HIE. Highlights are not blown and shadows aren't blocked. Try 1/60 to 1/125 @ f11 - f16 with a 25 or 29 red filter.

    Don Bryant
    What effect does the warm temperature have on the developer?

    Don, can we see some of your HIE work made as you described above?
    Diane

    Halak 41

  7. #27

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    Hi Soeren,
    Joining this thread late already but I found Laurie White's Infrared Photography Handbook to be very helpful when I first started shooting IR. Cheap, easy read, good overview of IR, and lots of useful information. Basic things from effects you can expect if you use a Red #25 filter in the sunlight versus with tungsten light, to more advanced topics too. This book is geared more toward roll film but a lot of the general principles apply to sheet film as well. Though this thread has a lot of great information in it too!

  8. #28

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    I have been using Kodak IR film for years and have always developed in D-76 straight for 12 mins @ 75 degrees and although it did the job, I spent way too much time dodging/burning contrasty subjects. Tried Xtol today for the first time. Used 1:1 for 12.5 min @ 20 degrees and the negs were EXTREMELY flat. Of course I can add contrast in printing, but I like a better starting point. Anyone have suggestions. I would like to try a staining developer as well and would like to see Don's prints also. Another thing....I get pinholes in my film. Again, any suggestions? Thanks - Jim

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by colrehogan
    What effect does the warm temperature have on the developer?

    Don, can we see some of your HIE work made as you described above?
    Diane,

    Perhaps you are drawing the wrong conclusion about the developer temperature. I use 77F as my standard developer temperature because I can always make my water temp. 77F, winter or summer. The temperature has not effect on the physical properties of the emulsion or film base. You could process at 80F if you wanted to. Pyro-Cat would also be a good developer to use as you get less film base stain but I haven't calibrated HIE with it since I have shoot any in a few years.

    The attached image is a scan of a small test print made from a digital negative. It is a gold toned Van Dyke Brown. The negative was processed as mentioned above. The print has not been sharpened and I've only set the white and black points after scanning - in other words the actual print looks better than the scan.

    Don

  10. #30
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    Don,
    Nice picture!

    No, I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't doing anything wrong by not controlling my temperature. I develop at whatever the temperature is in the room.

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