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  1. #1

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    4x5 Tri-X 320 and HC-110

    Does anyone on this board use this combination? I'm tempted to try it, but I can only find 50 sheet boxes locally, and don't want to spend $50 if it's not do-able. I've read the suggested dev times from Kodak, and wonder what HC-110 dilution most people use so you get long enough tray development times?

    Thanks,

    Curtis

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Curtis Nelson
    Does anyone on this board use this combination? I'm tempted to try it, but I can only find 50 sheet boxes locally, and don't want to spend $50 if it's not do-able. I've read the suggested dev times from Kodak, and wonder what HC-110 dilution most people use so you get long enough tray development times?

    Thanks,

    Curtis
    I have used this in the past. Rated Tri X at 160 and HC110 Dil B. Dev times for N dev 6 min 15 seconds at 70 degrees.

  3. #3
    lee
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    My time is Tri-x rated at 200 and hc110 at 6 minutes at 68f and this is 8x10 in trays. Very classic film and developer combination.

    lee\c

  4. #4

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    This is a classic, middle-of-the-road, standard combination used with great success by many photographers. It has a very nice look.

    Tri-X, having a long toe, benefits from slightly increased exposure of 1/2 to 1 stop if you desire good shadow detail. Examples might include product shots of black leather goods, dark blue suits and farm animals with brown or black coats.

    I personally have always had (for 40 years) an aversion to HC-110 because it has a nasty habit of dying without any warning such as a dramatic color change. I have had friends lose an entire 18-reel stainless basket of 120 film due to this anomaly.

    My recommendation for a similar developer would be Kodak's D76 or Ilford's ID-11. Slightly increased dilution (such as D76 @ 1:3) will yield longer development times, increased sharpness and very slightly increased grain.

    I would not venture a proper development time. That depends upon your metering technique and your kit of assorted equipment, from light meter to lab thermometers to timers to lenses to enlarger to water quality, etc. Honestly, experimentation is really necessary.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Cook
    I personally have always had (for 40 years) an aversion to HC-110 because it has a nasty habit of dying without any warning such as a dramatic color change.
    John,

    Are you talking about stock solutions going bad unpredictably? I've found the concentrate to be very stable even in partially filled jugs.

    My practice is to mix only the amount of working solution you intend to consume immediatly.

    I've had very good results with dilution B and sheet versions of Tri-X, exposing at an EI of 160. You can get into trouble with blocked highlights though. Bruce Barnbaum recommends a highly dilute mixture of dilution B to handle very contrasty scenes, he places his shadow values on Z IV. If I remember correctly dilution B is diluted 1:49 and about a 19 or 20 minute development at 68F is recommended. It works! I've used it.

    Normally though my dilution B time is 5.5 minutes at 70F.

    Don Bryant

  6. #6
    lee
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    I agree with Don Bryant. I have never had a failure with HC110. I use Dil B I mix from the consentrate (the bottle) one part of HC110 to 31parts of h2o That is dil b and it lasts much longer that way. 6 months is a long time if you do the 1:3 then 1:7 mix that Kodak wants you to use. I would recommend a good syringe to move the HC110 to the measuring vessel.

    lee\c

  7. #7

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    HC-110, solution B workd well wit Tri-X. May I suggest the following alternative: Ilford HP5+ in Rodinal 1:50. I find this combination to have richer tones and highre acutance.
    Jack Rosa

  8. #8
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    Out of curiosity, does anyone use HC-110 at anything besides dil.B? It's probably my inexperience showing here, but I honestly don't think I've ever heard of anyone using HC-110 at anothe dilution. -Grant

  9. #9

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    VoidoidRamone -
    I use HC-110 at a special dilution that some call 'H' (I read about in somewhere on the internet). I mainly use it to get longer dev times with HP5+.

  10. #10

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    For you who have used this film, you are referring to the NEW TriX, right (TXP320)? Because looking at the dev times in HC-110 B, I don't see how you can get a nice, evenly developed negative in under 3 minutes at the higher temps. I always thought the negative needed at least 5 minutes so it developed evenly. Does it work because of the continuous agitation?

    Curtis

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