warm tone developer for Ilford MG Art300

[I.Hiroki]

Hi Mahler.
uhmmm
I'm supposed to do toning to make it warm tone well.
but selenium toning improve the strings.
if I use the paper and this toning technique, it must be beautiful.
and I found the article written by Dr. Tim Rudman.
it is so helpfulthank you for your help.

I have used Ilford MG developer with great results. When I desire a slightly warmer tone I use Moersch Sepia Developer. I like the color of the paper as is, and hence I tone for permanence without a conscious effort to change the color of either the image or the paper. As Bob and Ian have inferred, use the paper with developer and toners so as to achieve the results that you desire. No way to know what various combinations will "achieve" until you do "your own thing" with your own negatives. Goggle the article on Multigrade Art 300 that was written recently by Dr. Tim Rudman. Lots of information about toning, color, etc., etc.

[Bob Carnie]

Not difficult , but if you use the formula I do pretty stinky so you need a well ventilated area.
For me toning is the last stage of a beautiful process where not only the visual tone is changed to a look you
like but as well the toning stage seems to impart a slight pop to the image which makes the print kind of jump out
at you when viewing.
For all my work { personal and client} that is slated for walls , I prefer to tone. Sometimes its just selenium toner , other times its
sepia and selenium or other toners combined.

This process is very hard to describe and as some point out Tim Rudman has great books on the subject, but I should point out
Eddie Ephrams has two wonderful books, Creative Elements and Gradient Light that I think are superb on the topic of printing and toning.

If you are located in an area where photochemicals are hard to get then I would suggest mixing from scratch and there are some real experts here on APUG that have helped me over the years with formulas.

have fun.

Hi Bob.
i get it. you do bleach and tone. it must be beautiful.
but also it sounds complicated and difficult.
I'll try it one day after I make beautiful normal print.
thank you

[I.Hiroki]

Hi bob.thank you for your opinion about toning
i definitely try bleach and selenium toning to make works.
It is not my favourite to compromise, besides many great photographers don't compromise like my favourite japanese photographer Herbie Yamaguchi. To study about techniques on APUG must makes me close to professional. I feel ive got great teachers on it
I hope to keep in touch with you.
Thank you.

[Ghostman]

I made a few prints on Art 300 this weekend. I used Ilford/Harman warm tone developer and then did a bleach/sepia/selenium toning process. The bleach was 1:50 for 1 minute, the sepia was 1:50 for 10 seconds and selenium was 1:20 for about a minute. It's come out golden/brass in colour and has made someone very happy.