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  1. #1
    Athiril's Avatar
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    HP5+ in overcast light, box speed, how would you process it?

    Had plenty of Tri-X with me. But haven't shot much HP5+, been meaning to, so did, was overcast yesterday.

    Shot at box speed.


    I have access to Rodinal, Xtol (stock or replenished), HC-110, Aculux-3 and T-Max Developer.

    I was shooting some portraits with it.


    Heard people do not like it in overcast conditions.



    How would you process it in with what I have available? Ilford says +20% development time for overcast conditions may be a nice idea on their page.

  2. #2
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    I love it in overcast light, but shoot it a bit more than box speed, around 500 or 640. And I develop in ID-11 1:1. I'd go with either Xtol and or HC-110 and develop at recommended time.

  3. #3

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    I mostly use Rodinal and Xtol. Would use Rodinal for this as its likely to give you a bit more contrast than the Xtol. I have also found the Massive Dev Chart times for HP5 in Rodinal to be wrong (generally they are spot on.) For Rodinal, or Adonal, 1+50 they suggest 11 minutes where I find 13 is correct. I have also seen this reported by others, e.g. if you look at Flickr and search for HP5 in Rodinal times.

  4. #4
    lbenac's Avatar
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    I like it in 510-Pyro 1:100 70F semi-stand 20 minutes = 1 minute agitation and 9 minutes stand then 1 minute agitation and 9 minutes stand.
    This is for 4x5 in tank.


    Cheers,

    Luc
    Field # ShenHao XPO45 - Monorail # Sinar F2
    Multi format P&S 4x5, 6x12, 6x9 # Chamonix Saber
    6x6 # Minolta Autocord, 6x9 # Kodak Medalist

  5. #5

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    When faced with low contrast situations the rule is to underexpose and overdevelop. Just how much depends on the subject contrast. This is when a spot meter is useful. Since overdevelopment increases density the exposure must be reduced to compensate. Reading a book about the zone system especially expansion and contraction of the luminance scale would be very helpful.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  6. #6

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    Here is an interesting article by DF Cardwell from 2006. It's about Neopan film, but comparing the looks from processing in Xtol and Rodinal. I think it covers exactly the situation that Athiril is dealing with and suggests that Rodinal is the best choice to boost the highlights, thus giving more contrast.

  7. #7
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Do you want crunchy with sparkly highlights (Rodinal) or do you want smoother with more midtone separation (XTOL)? Given the flat light, shadow speed should not be an issue and I'd be tempted to go for the Rodinal especially if you like a really bitey look.

    (I'm not really a fan of HP5 or 400TX though, so take this with a big grain of salt)

  8. #8
    Athiril's Avatar
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    I guess I'd like dark blacks with long contrast up to the midtones, midtones up high near highlights, so that the midtones (skin) is very whitish/bright.

  9. #9
    polyglot's Avatar
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    I guess you'll be developing lots and printing long then...

  10. #10

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    Overcast skies don"t always mean flat light it can be quite bright. I think developing for the contrast of the image space would be the way to go. I prefer overcast to bright sun generally and usually spot meter and develop accordingly. HP5 for my 4x5 and Delta 400 for 120 are my choices for film both developed in ID11 with the 120 at full strength and the 4x5 at 1:1. That said a recent foray into pinhole has me using Delta100 4x5 which is looking good as well.

    "You pay your money and take your chances" it's only film.


    http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

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