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  1. #11

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    If there are no edge markings, frame numbers, etc then your film got fixed before developing.

    Assuming you are using 35mm, if you take a piece of leader and put in your developer it should turn black within 2 or 3 minutes or so.
    If it turns clear, you have your bottles mixed up.

    FWIW, a 3:15 developing time is a little short, I don't know what the recommended time for your particular dev/film combination is, but generally you'd like your developing time to be 5+ minutes. You achieve that by adjusting temperature and, if necessary, dilution.
    However, even at 3 minutes you should have some image if everything else was right.

  2. #12

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    You might have accidentally fixed the film rather than developing it, I have only ever done this once and now have my bottles clearly labelled, plus a different colour top for each! (Black for dev, red for stop, white for fix), if you have fixed it first there won't be anything possible you can do to recover the images, do the strip test to ensure you have the right bottles, if your developer is old, it may have been 'oxidised' thus unusable and will not work, thus you need to test that, too. If it is old developer then no development took place and the film would have been fixed as if it had not been developed. Depending on your developer some do not keep if unused, i use collapsable bottles to squeeze all the air out of them... I highly recommend them! Rodinal is an example of a one-shot developer and once mixed has to be used within say, 24 hours of being mixed. Ilford ID11 can be mixed and used as stock solution 10 times (I find it works well and I only ever use stock) or diluted and used one-shot. It kept for a month in a sealed bottle with no ill effects but in open containers with air inside it lasted only a week. For CRUCIAL films I do advice fresh chemistry, i go out into nature and can wait ages for a shot, but if it is not a family event I am fine using ID11 or Perceptol etc etc with the stock solution, I find quality when enlarged to 8x10 does not degrade until used at least 8 or so times! Percepetol will do good in your situation actually, it will reduce the film speed by say half a stop with its recommended times, it is a fine grain developer. however you can pull process with any developer

    Hope this helps,
    Jacob

  3. #13
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdial View Post
    If there are no edge markings, frame numbers, etc then your film got fixed before developing.

    Assuming you are using 35mm, if you take a piece of leader and put in your developer it should turn black within 2 or 3 minutes or so.
    If it turns clear, you have your bottles mixed up.

    FWIW, a 3:15 developing time is a little short, I don't know what the recommended time for your particular dev/film combination is, but generally you'd like your developing time to be 5+ minutes. You achieve that by adjusting temperature and, if necessary, dilution.
    However, even at 3 minutes you should have some image if everything else was right.
    By all means... Do that test... With just a tiny snip of the film... With the lights on... Drop it in the measuring cup of developer and watch the film turn black... If that doesn't happen then you know right away.

  4. #14

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    Im glad i came here asked the question, got your answers, tested a strip before going all out with the other rolls.

    I did put in the leader into the developer tank, it hasn't turned black nor has it turned transparent. Its the same dark grey. Im guessing it must be the developer that has expired. Its dark brown in colour now. Been 6-8 months since last use.

    bdial, NH isn't it ? Now 3:15 was for the second strip since i was trying to pull this film (ERA 100) which was overexposed by +2. [-recommended film dev was a vague 6-10 mins]. I developed the earlier strip for 4:45 in the same developer.

    Jacob, I read your post with intent. I swear that would've been awful...and im guessing it is possible, but i think my chems are expired or not at its best to deliver. Im in Dubai which isn't exactly film friendly, Rodinal and other developers are hard to come by, but will try and approach this with a new bottle of ilfosol. Think i should change my fixer as well ?

    Thanks Bill, Jacob and bdial. Really helpful advice.

  5. #15
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by click flick View Post
    Its dark brown in colour now. Been 6-8 months since last use.
    I think you have found the problem!


    Steve.

  6. #16

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    Yes, if the fixer is old, change that too. I would say, 10 rolls for fixer depending on concentration should be the max, however check the bottle and instructions. If the developer changes colour that much it is useless, if you are using old dev, always test! Even test fresh dev to ensure it is mixed up right, also, i will post this tip to anyone on here... loading a film to the reel is a *****! So when you rewind the film before taking it out of the camera (assuming you are working with 35mm), don't rewind it all the way, try and leave a bit of the leader poking out, cut off a tiny bit and test any dev you have mixed. Once that is done, cut off the flappy bit so it is all even, and feed that first inch or so bit onto the reel BEFORE turning the lights off and without pulling any more out. do not leave the flappy bit on as it will snag on the reel when you are loading it, Then you can start turning the reel halves and it starts off well. keep your scissors within reach, so you can cut off the end from the canister when you come to it, then wind that last inch onto the reel, then load into your dev tank. Saves several minutes of sweat and frustration!

    Do invest in them zoom bottles, if even a little bit of air is near the chemical, it reduces its lifespan considerably! For concentrates a squirt of butane, R134a (as seen in many gas dusters), or first calls capri sun like packs will help chemicals to keep.

    Wish you the best of luck

    Jacob

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