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  1. #11
    Buster6X6's Avatar
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    Finally I had some time to develop the negatives and print my night exposures.This one PL 100 f22 for 5 min.They came out pretty good.I developed it in PMK and it is a straight print no burning or dodging.I have not had a chance to try Tmax as Mr.Konical suggested.It has been so cold brrrr....for so long.Better weather is coming.

    Just to let you know what the result was .

    Thanks Greg
    Looking is a gift, but seeing is power.

    Buster6X6

  2. #12
    Buster6X6's Avatar
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    I forgot to insert the print darn.Sorry
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Worthly vilage London at night.jpg  
    Looking is a gift, but seeing is power.

    Buster6X6

  3. #13
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    Greg, you might give the Efke 25 a try for night shooting if you get some. It has much better reciprocity characteristics than the 100 (go figure on that one, one of its few redeeming graces), so there should be a shot or two in there somewhere. For a first try, this shot looks very good.

    I've played around a bit with night stuff and transparency film and have found that the best metering system is good notes. If you will keep a note book handy and work out a simple exposure guide, after a couple of rolls things should firm up quite a lot. Since scenes vary so much, try to keep track of known light sources (street lamps, window lighting, etc.) and distances. This will make it easier. Development times are the same. Try different times and you will get a feel for those bright light sources and the balance.

    If you can get a copy of the latest View Camera magazine, there is some really nice work in it. tim

  4. #14
    Buster6X6's Avatar
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    Thanks Tim
    Those are really good pointers.I am still trying to figure out what film works with what.
    I have to make it a habit to take notes.Right now I do it some time when it is important.It sure makes sense what you were saying.

    Greg
    Looking is a gift, but seeing is power.

    Buster6X6

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by noseoil
    Since scenes vary so much, try to keep track of known light sources (street lamps, window lighting, etc.) and distances.
    Make sure you keep track of type of lightbulb too. The ever popular soduim streetlight (orange) is giving away to high pressure sodium (orange/white). The high pressure type are brighter.
    Mercury vapour looks brighter, but really isn't to a camera. Also looks white but has a greenish tinge to colour film, I know, won't really affect B&W, but just FYI.

  6. #16

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    Busta, I was looking at the print scan. Looks like the negs were over developed and still under exposed. (sings blown out and roof line detail lacking) You might try f8 @ 1,2,5,15,25 sec with contracted development take notes. The contact sheet will tell you which is proper. Then, in the future you can compair scene brightness and know which time will be closer. That scene might be 5 sec. @f8 iso 400 and maybe 25sec. @f8 iso 100 fwiw mark

  7. #17
    Buster6X6's Avatar
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    With no experience those little things get missed.I new it was a right thing to join this forum.Great suggestions.I have not done to much night photography so when I could print it I thought it was all right. With nothing to compare it to it is essential to belong to a forum like this.

    Greg
    Looking is a gift, but seeing is power.

    Buster6X6

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