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  1. #11
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    :ook on the Ilford website and read their PDF files on getting started, all will then become clearer. You need to do a set of test strips.

    Ian

  2. #12
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    Agreed. We can't give you a time because it depends on how much you're enlarging and cropping, how dense the negative is, what type of paper and developer you're using (and what developer dilution), the temperature of your darkroom, the phase of the moon, how many children you have, and how the Saskatchewan Roughriders are doing.

    Okay, the last three maybe don't matter.

    Test strips are the way to go.

    I typically have the enlarger lens at f/8 (most lenses are sharpest around there) and my exposures are typically in the 4 to 60-second range depending on whether I'm making tiny prints or quite large ones. A test strip will help you figure out what you need.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  3. #13

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    If the current exposure is short then whatever fstop on the enlarger you are using, try going down by at least one maybe two stops. If the print size is say 5x7 then use a series of exposures starting at maybe 3 secs and increase each strip by say 2 secs. This won't give you equal steps. Ideally you should increase the times using fractions of stops with 3 secs as your base but I have no idea what you are using as a timer nor how familiar you are with fstop timing.

    Kentmere paper is nearly twice as fast as say Ilford so 6 secs exposure with Ilford MGIV paper will be only 3 sec on Kentmere but the developing time remains the same. You compensate with reduced exposure NOT reduced developing time.

    You may understand this and I am not trying to insult your intelligence but I had the impression that you may think the faster paper needs compensation by a reduction in developing time. This is not the case.

    Good luck

    pentaxuser

  4. #14
    Steve Smith's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mryoda View Post
    The image at 1:9 will develop within 15 secs and black within 20 secs literally if you miss with the tounges or drop it back in the Dev, its ruined.
    Then you are giving it too much exposure. You don't want to be judging development then pulling it out of the developer at a critical moment. You should give it as much exposure as it needs to develop to completion in the developer.

    i.e. you keep it in there until it appears to be not getting any darker.


    Steve.
    "People who say things won't work are a dime a dozen. People who figure out how to make things work are worth a fortune" - Dave Rat.

  5. #15
    mryoda's Avatar
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    OK i followed the times to make the test strip and with the
    Kentmere negative it develops to black at any time from 2 - 16 secs

    I did the same thing with Ilford HP5+ Negative and its perfect
    The test print came out perfect and the Print was the best print
    i have done yet, There is no brown tint to it,

    I will scan it when its dry and let you see.
    so thanks all for the advice.

    100% respect to all
    When your dead, None of this Matters.
    Film- Nikon F65, Sigma 28-80mm Macro Lens, Canon EOS 50E with Canon 28 - 80mm Lens
    Yashica-A (my new fav)

  6. #16
    polyglot's Avatar
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    "Factorial Development" is a technique where you choose your paper development time from how long it takes the first shadows to appear in the print. Say you see shadows just coming up at 10s (typical for properly exposed RC paper), you would need to develop for about a minute. If it takes 20s for shadows to appear (typical for properly exposed FB paper), you develop for two minutes; i.e. the total development time is 6x the time required for shadows to appear. Going to 9x is considered acceptable and in some cases desirable because the development activity slows right down; the longer development can be more even and make sure you get a real black. You should never develop in trays for less than 1 minute for reasons of uniformity.

    If you get a completely black image from the Kentmere neg with only 2s exposure, yet you can print fine from HP5, it would seem that your K neg is very thin (underexposed in camera, or underdeveloped). If that is the case, you'll probably need to print at a high grade (try Grade 4 or Grade 5 if using the Ilford filters; Grade 5 is 1 stop slower than the rest) with very short exposures and small apertures - stop the enlarger lens down to f/32 or something. That might get you a manageably short exposure. If the print is still too dark even with a 2s exposure, try putting a neutral density filter in with the multigrade filter.

  7. #17
    mryoda's Avatar
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    It maybe the camera ? Its a Nikon F65 and i have it set to auto
    Problem with that is the camera chooses the f/stop for you,
    i am going to try it in manual and make my own choices.

    Also i have just acquired a Minolta X-300, that's a manual camera, so that needs a
    go with some film in it also.

    As for enlarger lens it go's to f16 if i remember
    it's a 50mm f2.8 El-Nikkor and i have a f4 El-Nikkor also

    As for the Kentmere film, on the Massive dev chart it states 7.5mins using Rodinal (r09)
    for the 400 ISO film so thats what i did ?
    When your dead, None of this Matters.
    Film- Nikon F65, Sigma 28-80mm Macro Lens, Canon EOS 50E with Canon 28 - 80mm Lens
    Yashica-A (my new fav)

  8. #18
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    How do your Kentmere negatives look compared to your HP5 ones?

    They should look broadly similar if both are similarly developed and were shot under broadly similar lighting conditions.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  9. #19
    mryoda's Avatar
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    I shot a 100 and 400 Kentmere the 400 came out really dark, the 100 looked ok
    but i had the dreaded dev problems above with both.
    Both were shot in the same Nikon F65 in auto mode.
    When your dead, None of this Matters.
    Film- Nikon F65, Sigma 28-80mm Macro Lens, Canon EOS 50E with Canon 28 - 80mm Lens
    Yashica-A (my new fav)

  10. #20
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    You likely overdeveloped the 400 then.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

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