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12-01-2004, 01:55 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Århus, Denmark
Posts: 2,097
| Your favourite B&W portrait film Hi
If you are shooting portraits/people I want to know what films you are using and how they are rated and developed.
Please mention whether you are using the film in studio with flash, studio with tungsten or in natural light, please.
Greetings Morten
__________________ Morten Damkjær
I shoot b/w with my Holga, Lomo Cosmic Symbol or Olympus Trip 35.
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12-01-2004, 03:47 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Naestved, DK
Posts: 2,125
| Although I don't do portraits yet I find the question interesting and would also like to know.
How does the film-developer compinations differ. Which qualities do you consider important e.g. skintones, contrast, big or small grain etc.
Or am I threadjacking Morten ?
What do you use yourself ?
Regards Søren |
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12-01-2004, 04:03 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Århus, Denmark
Posts: 2,097
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by Soeren Or am I threadjacking Morten ?
What do you use yourself ? | You are not thread-jacking at all. I think your questions just helps people elaborate further.
Myself I use Pan F+ and Delta 100 in Rodinal 1+50 in the studio with flash heads a lot (very small grain and great sharpness for portraits). And Tri-X in Rodinal 1+50 (sometimes HC-110 or T-Max) when shooting outside (wonderful tones!). If I want the dirty and gritty look when shooting in low light I use Delta 3200 in HC-110 (nice grain, good for grade 3½-5 printing (my coarse art!  ).
I see the difference in developer/film-combos that you can get more speed from a fast film when using a certain developer (T-Max is good for pushing, Rodinal is not). Rodinal is good for slower films and faster film if you go for the (IMHO beautiful) grain. Fine grain with faster film is achieved by i.e. Microphen.
Greetings Morten
__________________ Morten Damkjær
I shoot b/w with my Holga, Lomo Cosmic Symbol or Olympus Trip 35.
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12-01-2004, 05:45 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 230
| I shoot mostly Pan F+ for portraits. In fact, I made a print from it tonight and I could hardly focus the enlarger being such fine grain (microsight grain focuser). I like Microdol-x best. I find Rodinal too grainy for portraits, even when coupled with Pan F+. Usually, I reserve Rodinal for abstract and landscape when I need the harder transition between values.
You can see my developing times here: http://www.vermillionstudios.com/cgi..._Testing_Chart
It all depends on your lighting ratio as well. All my lighting is usually very flattering, so I have to make up for it by doing an N+1 to get the most from the film.
I find that APX 100 is really great for portraits as well. I find it is best used on delicate whites.
__________________
Money is not the problem. The problem is, I don't have any.
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12-01-2004, 06:50 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Tucson
Posts: 2,898
| Efke 25 & PMK Mort, here's an example of a grab shot with Efke 25 & PMK. I usually run it at asa 12 and develop for 7:00 at 70f. The tonality is very nice with skin tones, but light can be problematic if there is a lot of overcast. I have to shoot nearly wide open and watch out for dof and shutter speed, but the results are there when everything is working well.
The shot was taken a few weekends ago, during the K9 trials in Tucson. The scan doesn't do justice to this print (obligatory p.o.s. scanner). It was taken with a Mamiya C330F and 135mm lens in full sunlight. I didn't record the exposure, but most likely 1/60 @ f5.6. The print looks like a 3d image with the off-white stucco wall out of focus and the edges of the subject crisp and sharp. |
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12-01-2004, 06:52 AM
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#6 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 9,097
| i have shot many different films for portraits, but my favorites right now are expired tri-x ( olde emulsion + 5x7 ) tmax 100 and tmax 400 (4x5) all developed in ansco 130 diluted 1:5 +/- @ 70º for about 8 mins. i develop by inspection so my times and temps may not be exact ... the trix i expose with studio tungston lights in soft boxes, and the tmax i shoot with avail light mixed with a strobe (lumedyne). |
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12-01-2004, 07:05 AM
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#7 (permalink)
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Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Corinth, Greece
Posts: 347
| In last night's printing session I got nice results from 35mm HP5 shot indoor in natural light at 400iso. I developed it in Rodinol 1:50 for 12 minutes. The negatives were low contrast with great tones with a hint of grain on close inspection when printed on 5X7 ilford MGFB in Centrabrom S 1:15.
James |
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12-01-2004, 07:16 AM
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#8 (permalink)
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Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Rotterdam
Posts: 1,668
| APX100 in Rodinal 1+50
I guess it doesn't matter the kind of light it goes through, natural light or flash (yellow-green filter), tungsten light (no filter)
It always gives "creamy" skin tones, very pleasant IMHO.
__________________
Mama took my APX away.....
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12-01-2004, 07:18 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Århus, Denmark
Posts: 2,097
| Quote: |
Originally Posted by titrisol APX100 in Rodinal 1+50 | that I will try. I have some rolls in the fridge so it is easy to give it a try (and Rodinal is always on stock (at the time 2 litres of concentrate!)
__________________ Morten Damkjær
I shoot b/w with my Holga, Lomo Cosmic Symbol or Olympus Trip 35.
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12-01-2004, 07:19 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: New York, New York
Posts: 14,841
| My favorite--Ektapan at EI 50 for studio portraits with strobes in 8x10" in ABC pyro targeted for Azo, at least until I run out. When I do, Efke PL100 is looking like a likely replacement.
Otherwise, it's usually Tri-X or J&C Classic 400 at EI 160 in various formats, in ABC pyro for 6x7 and larger (6x7 or 4x5 enlarged with a cold light head, 5x7" and up contact printed on Azo), PMK for 6x6, unless I need more speed for available light, in which case I might use Acufine and rate at EI 640. |
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