Kodak Tri-X pulled by mistake
I feel like a putz. I accidently got my 6x7 bodies mixed up and exposed a roll of Tri-X at 100 iso thinking it was loaded with acros 100. I can't seem to locate any info on developing Tri-X pulled 2 stops.
Has anyone done this or maybe know where I can get dev times using HC-110? I usually stand develop in dilution G w/ continuous agitation for the first minute then I leave it for an hour.
Thanks in advance. Feel free to flame me for the error. It is deserved.
Last edited by surlysteve; 06-26-2012 at 06:58 AM. Click to view previous post history.
I've pulled Tri-X deliberately rated at EI 100 with D-76 (1:1) for 7 minutes, as part of a class assignment. Contrast was low but printable. Not sure how you would do this with HC-110, I mean I don't know what dilution you would use... I've never used that developer. The Massive Dev Chart shows times you might find useful as a starting point, take a look. http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart...110&mdc=Search
I am no expert, but if I had this problem and had to use HC-110, I would shorten the time by ~40%, so maybe Dilution F at 11 minutes instead of 15. That's just me, I do not get very scientific about my film processing...
“Art is what we call... the thing an artist does." Seth Godin
why flame you? Everyone messes up. In this case, ur actually not all that badly off -- someone else may have a formula for pulling it accurately two stops, but overexposing tri-x by that much actually isn't that bad, the film has lots of latitude, you'll get really good shadow detail for sure. I live in the rockies where the thin air makes for really dark shadows and I normally give it a plus-1 exposure compensation anyway.
if i were developing it in my usual d76 1:1 I'd cut the developing time by maybe 2 minutes, max, but seriously, if all else fails, develop it as normal and just print a little longer, you'll probably be surprised how good the images are.
Tri-X will handle it beautifully. With HC-110 I would use Dilution H (HC-110 concentrate mixed 1:63 with water).
If you really want to do it right, shoot another roll at 100 as a test, developer for, say six minutes, agitating every 30s, and see if your negs are the right density for printing or not. Then you can see how you need to adjust for the roll you have on hand now.
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You get one stop overexposure for free. Many people rate Tri-X at 200.
I get 10 stops of straight line with Tri-X so really all that will happen due to overexposure is a shift to the right.
If your subject wasn't extremely contrasty, I don't think you have to change development at all.
ps. I work for Kodak but the opinions and positions I take are not necessarily those of EKC.
If you pull the development you may well get very flat negatives.
I would process as normal (especially as you use stand development which is a compensating approach to film development).
I use Delta 400 with a personal EI of 200 and, when making an image with very dark shadows that are important to the final result, I find I need to open up another stop which is the equivalent of shooting at 100. However, I use Thornton's Two Bath not HC110 so there is no possibility of blowing the highlights.
If the images were of contrasty scenes and are important to you, I would recommend that you process in Thornton's two bath - which is a very simple developer to mix up and I would suggest 5 - 5.5 minutes in each bath at 20 degrees celsius.
As stated in an earlier post, you may very well be surprised at how very well they print and how 'open' your shadows and mid-tones look.
some years ago I made the same mistake with TMax 400. I realized it during shooting and went from ISO 100 back to ISO 400 and took the same pictures again. I developed the film in D-76 2-bath (I think 5 minutes both in part 1 and 2). All pictures were perfect, I could't distinguish between ISO 100 and 400 pictures.
I'd say develop normally, no pull.
Mark Barendt, Beaverton, OR
"We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin
Thank you to everyone for your replies. As suggested I developed as normal and the negatives came out fine. May need to print a bit longer, but definitely usable. I had no idea that Tri-x was rated around 200 iso. Good to know for future mistakes .