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  1. #11
    Uncle Bill's Avatar
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    I'd go with Ilford Ilfotec DD-X 1+4. It's their version of Tmax developer for their Delta films. If you can't find DDX, then try Tmax Developer.

    This was shot on Delta 400 back the first week of May in New York City on a drizzly day with an Olympus OM-1.


    Along the High Line by Bill Smith1, on Flickr
    "Life moves pretty fast, if you don't stop and look around once and a while, you might just miss it."
    Ferris Bueller

  2. #12
    Leigh B's Avatar
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    I've been a Rodinal disciple/cheer leader for well over 50 years. It's the only developer I use other than Diafine.

    However, IM(-H)O it's not well-suited to fast films. I haven't shot anything faster than ASA 100 in decades.

    I think HC-110 or Ilford DD-X would be good choices.

    - Leigh
    “Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.” - Plato

  3. #13

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    How does DD-X compare to TMax developer? LegacyPro LMAX is half the price of DD-X. If DD-X is much better than TMax, I'll go with it, but I'd rather go with TMax as it will work well with Acros as well.

  4. #14
    Leigh B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brofkand View Post
    LegacyPro LMAX is half the price of DD-X.
    You get what you pay for. Always has been true; always will be true.

    When will people learn that these low-ball prices are designed to drive the competition out of business.

    Once that's done, the remaining manufacturers can charge whatever they want, and we'll pay or go without.

    If you buy cheap... you're part of the problem.

    - Leigh
    “Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.” - Plato

  5. #15
    trojancast's Avatar
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    Don't disagree with any of the above, but I use ID-11 to process Delta film. Works well for any speed.
    Canon EOS-1V | Canon 5D2 | 17-40/4L | 24-105/4L | 14/2.8L | 24/1.4L | 35/1.4L | 50/1.2L | 85/1.2L | 200-400/4L | 580EX

    “For me, the camera is a sketch book, an instrument of intuition and spontaneity.”
    ― Henri Cartier-Bresson

  6. #16
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    I'm an HC-110 devotee, but I shoot mostly LF. I have had good luck with variants on the A. Adams compensating formula for just about all films, Delta and T-Max included: dilution G (1:119) with two gentle tank inversions every five or seven minutes for a total of 25 minutes of development time at 68 degrees F. Of course, this works for my own exposure and E.I. settings and may not work with yours. The only time I use stronger dilutions (B or H) is when I need a contrast boost based on scene brightness range.

    Jonathan

  7. #17
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    I've gotten great results using either.
    -----------------------

    "Well, my photos are actually much better than they look..."

    Richard S.
    Albany, CA (San Francisco bay area)

    My Flickr River of photographs
    http://flickriver.com/photos/rich815...r-interesting/

    My Photography Website
    http://www.lightshadowandtone.com

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leigh B View Post
    You get what you pay for. Always has been true; always will be true.

    When will people learn that these low-ball prices are designed to drive the competition out of business.

    Once that's done, the remaining manufacturers can charge whatever they want, and we'll pay or go without.

    If you buy cheap... you're part of the problem.

    - Leigh
    Kodak is doing quite a fine job going out of business themselves without me buying knockoff chemistry. I buy name-brand film, only because Acros and Ilford films aren't available under house brands (I bought tons of Acros when it was still available under LegacyPro). The solvency of Kodak does not depend on everyone buying "genuine" HC-110 or D-76. It depends on them not being stupid and squandering their resources.

    I suppose the box of macaroni and cheese in your pantry is made by Kraft? And the salt made by Morton's? I could go on; off-brand items are generally produced by the national brand manufacturer, just re-labeled. How many posts on APUG prove that Arista EDU film is Foma, or Arista Premium is Tri-X? Kodak's chemicals are made by Champion, and I wouldn't be surprised if these knockoff chemicals are Champion as well, just in different bottles and with different labels.

    To get back on topic, I am going to shoot a few rolls of Delta 400 and process them in D-76 soon. And yes, it is genuine D-76. I'll also keep trying with HC-110. I don't really want to buy another developer right now; I'd honestly rather get rid of Delta than try to learn another developer. I got Rodinal pretty well figured out then threw in HC-110 and that is taking time to master. Thanks everyone for the responses.

  9. #19

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    I've successfully developed Delta 400 in Rodinal (1:100), T-Max Developer (1:9) and Formulary's BW-2 (1:1:8). It came out fine in all of them, but I prefer the look of the TMD and BW-2.
    "What drives man to create is the compulsion to, just once in his life, comprehend and record the pure, unadorned, unvarnished truth. Not some of it; all of it."

    - Fred Picker

  10. #20
    Perry Way's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Bill View Post
    I'd go with Ilford Ilfotec DD-X 1+4. It's their version of Tmax developer for their Delta films.
    Hello Uncle Bill, I think Ilfotec DD-X is their preferred developer for all of their B&W films excluding the one processed with color chemistry.
    I love the wilderness and I love my trail cameras, all Fuji's! :) GA645, GW690 III, and the X100 which I think is the best trail camera ever invented (to date).

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