Oops, I forgot to ask. If I have a 1/2 gallon of working fixer, does it matter if it's stored in (2) quart bottles as opposed to a 1/2 gallon bottle ?.
It might seem like a silly question, but I'm having trouble finding "clear" 1/2
gallon jugs that are quality made. Seems like a lot are thin glass.
Is this the link you mean? Binbooks
Originally Posted by Jennifer
Not sure which article you're referring to.
Yes, but I don't know how to link it to here.
Click on your link
at the binbooks page at top click photography
Under conversation topics
Click Chemical Processes
Whew and the article will come up. If you know how to link it to here that would be good !.
It's a very long article, with a lot of tech mumbo jumbo I don't understand,
but the real life capacity of fixer, etc are easy to understand.
As Sue has likely not the foggiest idea of the quantity of working
Originally Posted by Dean Williams
strength fixer needed to process a roll of film, your suggestion
may be the way for her to go.
I use fixer one-shot very dilute. I have by testing determined
the quantity of chemistry needed then dilute to the
necessary volume. Dan
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' use fixer one-shot very dilute. I have by testing determined
the quantity of chemistry needed then dilute to the
Could you give us more details of your fixing method? How did you determine residual silver?
OK, how would I go about using a two-bath method? Thanks.
Originally Posted by Helen B
That's easy. Example: a 120 kindermann tank takes aprox 450ml.
You need: 2 - 16oz bottles. Clear glass is nice, as you can see if their clean.
Keep them in a drawer or box where it's dark
Label them Film Fix 1 and Film Fix 2
10 min fix total time....pour in fix1 for 5min
pour out, and give a water rinse, it cuts down on fix1
carry over to Fix2
Pour out rinse, and pour in Fix 2 for 5 min
Tada that's all there is to it. Just keep track of how much you used it.
I think I seen your using the Kodak powdered you mix it fixer ?
If so USE a stop bath or you will kill the fixer sooner. Stop is cheap, compared to fixer.
Here's what I do - I'm not suggesting that it is the 'right' way, it's just the way I do it. It's fairly simple: you keep two working fixer solutions, say Bath 1 and Bath 2. You fix in Bath 1 for twice or thrice (T-Max) the clearing time*, rinse in one change of water, then fix in Bath 2 for the same time. Bath 1 does all the work, Bath 2 removes the small amount of remaining silver halide or silver-thiosulphate complex from the emulsion - and so Bath 2 is almost fresh fixer.
Using Grant Haist's table for fixer capacity (which actually applies to acid fixer) as given in the binbooks article (original in Vol 1 of Modern Photographic Processing) you discard the first fixer bath after it has fixed 40 rolls per US gallon. I keep working strength fixer in litre botles, so I discard Bath 1 after 10 films have been fixed (or 5 T-Max films, or a combination). Then I use the old Bath 2 as the new Bath 1 and make a fresh Bath 2. I've been doing that since the early 70's.
If you are using two-bath fixation, you can use the clearing time as an indicator of the exhaustion of the first bath - the fixer is due for replacement when the clearing time has doubled from fresh fixer. (If you use that method with single-bath fixation, you are in danger of over-using your fixer.) However, that method does not take account of the silver content in Bath 2, so I prefer to stick to the counting method, though I keep testing the clearing time.
*There is a case for testing the clearing time with film that has already been soaked in water for a few minutes. Experiments appear to have shown that dry film and wet film clear quite differently when immersed in some fixers. Something that can easily be tested once for yourself to see if it is a factor with the film/fixer combination that you are using. It may not be an issue - not many people bother, especially as using dry film has resulted in slightly longer clearing times when I've tried the comparison. Some experiments by others (proper scientists, unlike myself) have shown large discrepancies.
Oops, I noticed you do 35mm. I think that uses aprox 300ml.
Those little club soda bottles that come in a six pack are 10oz. They will hold 305ml to the top. DON'T re-use vinegar bottles !. I tried it and no matter how hard I tried, they still had a residue inside. If your going to re-use bottles go for club soda, mineral water, or a non-staining juice.
Those green french name mineral water bottles hold 810ml to the top
Bottle is marked 750ml
Kdeem white grape juice bottle, clear glass 710ml to top
Bottle is marked 22oz
All the bottles I mentioned will accept a 28/400 cap. Poly-seal caps do NOT
work on these bottles. A simple test is put a couple of teaspoons of baking soda in the bottle, few ounces or so of water, cap it and shake it up good.
If it don't seal, you'll know it !. Some bottles will seal with the poly-seal but the seal is the cone shape in the cap, and this will slip inside, and just the thin lip will seal which is not always reliable.
Does anyone know where I can get
a job testing bottles ?.
I HAVE experience