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  1. #11
    PhotoJim's Avatar
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    I'm just rereading the Film Development Cookbook this week. It's still a useful reference. It's the book that inspired me to try pyrogallol-based developers, which I still use today.
    Jim MacKenzie - Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

    A bunch of Nikons; Feds, Zorkis and a Kiev; Pentax 67-II (inherited from my deceased father-in-law); Bronica SQ-A; and a nice Shen Hao 4x5 field camera with 3 decent lenses that needs to be taken outside more. Oh, and as of mid-2012, one of those bodies we don't talk about here.

    Favourite film: do I need to pick only one?

  2. #12

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    Michael...looks like a worthwhile read..I ended up ordering it from Amazon
    Last edited by cepwin; 07-04-2012 at 03:39 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #13
    Mustafa Umut Sarac's Avatar
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    If you prefer the highest quality possible , I think nobody argue with Kodak. And if you want cheap , buy from short end movie film sellers and order Kodak 5222. It can be 5 or more times cheaper than TMAX and Ilford. My eyes could never loved Ilford 400 asa films but FP4 with Pyro developer is very very special.
    If you are living in USA , liquid HC110 would be cheap and Ansel Adams used it for years. It is best developer Kodak was producing in few generations. If you want another Ansel Adams developer , it is D23. If I am not wrong , it is not hard to homemade and everything needed is under hand.

    Pyro developers are toxic but wonderful and stain the film and fill the gaps between the grains. It graduates the hardness and may be thickness of the film based on light hit zone.
    If you dont inhale the powders , no problem but reading and reading is important.

    Another wonderful developer is Rodinal but sourcing it is complex. But Leica advised to its camera users few times.

    Its a wide ocean and have fun.

    Umut

  4. #14

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    If you are not afraid of a bit of chemistry you could try and make/ alter your developers to match the exact effect/tonal structure of your film. It takes a bit of work and trial and error but in the end it is well worth it. Personally I really love using WD2H Developer with Efke 25 or 50, both in 120 or 4x5 format. The staining of this Pyro Developer on slow or medium speed film is exceptional, especially old style, silver rich film.

    Well that's my take on that.

    Alex.

  5. #15

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    No need to match film to chemistry. All B&W developers Kodak and Ilford sells are generic to all B&W films. You just have to find the right temperature/time for the film. I use D76 for everything. It's very forgiving and pretty universal, not to mention widely available.

    I use Arista Premium film which is the same as Kodak Tri-X in private branding. It works exactly the same way except it's quite a bit cheaper.
    Develop, stop, fix.... wait.... where's my film?

  6. #16
    ic-racer's Avatar
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    I use t-max developer for everything.

  7. #17

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    TMAX was my second developer and first from Kodak, and it is my favorite developer, i ran out one bottle and have all the results decent, i bought 2 more bottles but i will use it in the future as i am sure about it, i just test more another developers to have backups or options, Ilfosol 3 is great too, D76 gave me results fine but not as TMAX and Ilfosol 3, HC-110 i used once recently and will use it again for another waiting film, but the first impression giving me that this developer will be in same class of TMAX.Ilfosol 3 and not D-76.

  8. #18
    Photo-gear's Avatar
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    Ilfosol 3 is the Ilford equivalent of HC-110.

  9. #19
    Tony-S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo-gear View Post
    Ilfosol 3 is the Ilford equivalent of HC-110.
    Why is it that HC-110 is good for decades but Ilfosol 3 goes bad 4 months after it's been opened?

  10. #20
    Photo-gear's Avatar
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    Coz Ilfosol 3 is like HC-110 dilution B. Not like the original syrup.

    But i might be mistaken. Ilfosol S would be the real HC-110 equivalent, as Ilfotec LC29 and HC are. Sorry.

    I think you might get more accurate info on this APUG thread:
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/3...quivalent.html
    Last edited by Photo-gear; 07-07-2012 at 03:18 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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