More Fomapan Frustrations

[Darkroom317]

When my Plus-X supply ran out I decided that Fomapan 100/ Asrista.EDU Ultra 100 would be my new film along with the 400 version. I bought around 30 rolls and set off to Michigan. I have used these films before without problem and loved the tones it gives with Rodinal.

However, this time I have severely disappointed. Dark spots on some of my favorite frames from this last trip. Yes, they are on the negatives. I first noticed them when I hung the film to dry. At first I thought it was an issue with a lens until i saw it another roll of film from another camera. Also the edges of many of the frames are lighter. Though I am guessing this is from a lightleak.

I know some others have had issues with Fomas' films. Now I am afraid to use it on an upcoming trip. What could have caused these problems? Also, does anyone have some recommendations as to what I can use with similar tonality but with better quality control?

Camera: RB67 Pro-S
Film: Arista.EDU Ultra
Developer: Rodinal 1:50

[Ian Grant]

Foma films build up contrast far faster than any other make they need about 75% less development (time) to achieve similar tonality and about half the film speed. I've been using them for about 5-6 years with no issues like this, but Rodinal contains hydroxide so I'd use a good plain water rinse not a stop bath. Don't shake up developers, fixers etc before mixing as that can take particles settled on the bottom of a bottle into the working solution, Foma films are softer and they can lodge on the surface of the film. Ian

[baachitraka]

I shot 8 rolls of Fomapan 100 when I was travelling to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/K%C3%B6nigssee with 35mm Zuiko. All came really well.

Metering with K2(Yellow filter): 1/250 @f/8 and prints without filter on Adox MCP 310 when developed with Rodinal 1+50 for 15 mins with 3 agitations at every 5 minutes.

[Darkroom317]

Thank You Ian. I suspected the stop bath even though the website says you can use it. How do you do your water rinse? How long and how many water exchanges. I was surprised.I have used this film a few times without incident over the past two years.

[Bertil]

The dark spots on the first picture, couldn't that be underdeveloped spots due to air bubbles?
Picture 2 looks to me not as light leak (necessarily), but rather over developed edges due to inproper agitation.

I have for many years used Fomapan 100 as 4x5/5x7 and 8x10 (unfortunately not in 35 mm or 120, but should be the same emulsion); the only problem I have encountered was some years ago when it was suddenly necessary to prewet (2 minutes) the film sheets bevore developing.
I have had no problem with ordninary stop bath, and my developers have been Rodinal (1+50), D-76 (konc or 1+1) and D-23 (konc or 1+1).

I would recommend quite vigorious agitation the first minute, and then the same vigorious agitation some 10-15 seconds each second or third minute.
(In my experience the most important thing with agitation is not that it is performed very often, but when it is performed it should be done vigoriously, in a random pattern, in order to get rid of the all the used chemicals, and for new fresh chemicals to enter the emulsion - it may work to agitate very cautiously but it's risky and my yield uneven development.)

Your problems may not necessarily be due to the film, give it another try!

Good luck!
/Bertil

[Darkroom317]

Ok, I was slightly more cautious in my agitation. I was told that too much agitation would yield overly constrasty negatives.

Tack så mycket, Bertil

Kris

[piu58]

I had once similar spots too. The reason were tiny paper particles form the backing paper. Please clean your camera before using an other film. The particles were everwhere in the camera.

I stopped using foma film. If you shot 35mm you don't have this problem of course.

[R.Gould]

I have been using Fomapan now for a number of years without problems, developing in both Rodinal 1/50 and D76, the only time I have had problems is when using a acid stop bath, plain water stop seems to suit this film, I use 3 changes of water, invert 15 times with each change, then fixer, if you do use stop then only 10 seconds max, with Rodinal develop anywhere between 11 and 17 minutes depending on the subject, if it is a high contrast then 11 minutes if low contrast then 17, agitate for the first minute, then two inversions every 30 seconds, which give negatives with lovely tonality,
Richard

[John Austin]

Foma films build up contrast far faster than any other make they need about 75% less development (time) to achieve similar tonality and about half the film speed. . . Ian

My results half agree, or half disagree - I am using the Foma 100 in 10x8" size and find it works best at 40asa with ten minutes dev' in replenished D76d to achieve a similar curve

Before anyone says my dev' is knackered, Ilford D100, D400 and TriXipan require about, or less than, recommended dev' times in the same big old bath - I pre-soak Foma to remove the blue dye that otherwise makes the dev' a funny colour - I shall not be replacing my Fomapan when I run out

The D76d was mixed up in May 1985 and like me improves with age - Casting nasturtiums on my D76d is tantamount to kicking my dog, don't do it

John
Quinninup

[Michael R 1974]

Ok, I was slightly more cautious in my agitation. I was told that too much agitation would yield overly constrasty negatives.

Tack så mycket, Bertil

Kris

Agitation should NOT be vigourous.