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  1. #21

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    Agree. I didn't mean to imply it necessarily needs to be used "one shot". Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by MattKing View Post
    Thanks Michael.

    I would point out, however, that I do re-use film fix (Ilford Hypam currently). I keep careful track of how many rolls I have fixed - my capacity target is about 2/3 of the manufacturer's recommendation. I monitor clearing time. I also watch out for any sediment or build up of "crud" - if any appears I stop re-using that batch.

    Unlike some others, I also use HCA with film.

    In short, I fix films in re-used film fix but, IMHO, I am careful and conservative about how I do so, and have the knowledge and experience that permits me to do it safely.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R 1974 View Post
    Matt is correct. OP is using Ilford Rapid Fixer. It is diluted 1+4 to fix either film or paper. But do not use the same working solution to fix both film and paper. Mix it fresh for each application. At the 1+4 dilution, a fresh working solution will easily fix TMAX films in 4 minutes. 5-6 minutes is fine, but significantly longer times can result in bleaching. Proper agitation during the fixing process is important. Many people neglect this. For paper, a fresh working solution of Ilford Rapid Fixer (1+4 dilution) will fix a sheet of FB paper in 60 seconds. It is very important not to exceed the capacity of a given volume of working solution. Refer to Ilford's technical literature.

    In addition to using proper agitation when fixing, it is also important to thoroughly mix the working solution. When mixing working solutions from liquid concentrates, it is easy to overlook the importance of good mixing. However, even in liquid form, standard acidic rapid fixers do not mix with water as easily as one might assume. Ilford has a very useful technical publication (on the website) which discusses this. Don't just pour the fixer concentrate into water, give a quick stir and expect it to be properly mixed. Mix it well.
    This is a question I have always meant to ask - define proper agitation for fixing? I think the Ilford PDF's suggest to agitate in the same manner as developer (I.E., agitate for 10 seconds per minute), which is what I do.

    Cheers

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoffy View Post
    This is a question I have always meant to ask - define proper agitation for fixing? I think the Ilford PDF's suggest to agitate in the same manner as developer (I.E., agitate for 10 seconds per minute), which is what I do.

    Cheers
    And from Kodak (in this case, j109 which is the XTol datasheet):

    "Fixer - Agitate continuously for the first 30 seconds and for 5 seconds at 30-second intervals after that."
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

    Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2

  4. #24
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    So, in conclusion - follow the same routine that you use when developing! Thanks

  5. #25
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    Ilford rapid fixer has for quite a while had a confusing label that refers to "Ilford Paper fixer" inside. Ignore that label.

    There is a page on http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/...ndry+Chemicals which should allow you to download the data sheet for the Product, (the page gives a popup link which I could not access)

    (try http://www.darkroom.ru/info/manuals/...manual_eng.pdf ) Sugused for film is 1+4 mix (One part Concentrate to 4 parts water) with a time of 2-5 minutes, any film with Delta or Tmax in it's name should be fixed AT LEAST 5 minutes in fresh fixer.

    All the "T-Grain" or Delta Grain films require more time than given.
    Charles MacDonald
    aa508@ncf.ca
    I still live just beyond the fringe in Stittsville

  6. #26
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    I think you confused fix times for film and print. Ilford recommends 30 seconds for prints, 2-5 minutes for film. I use 3 minutes but do a clip test about every second film. My clip test typically gives a clearing time of around 40 seconds with fresh fixer, and minimum fix time should be twice the clearing time.

  7. #27
    Rafal Lukawiecki's Avatar
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    Could the dots also be related to air bells during development? Do you tap the tank, relatively hard against a surface, at the beginning, after pouring developer in, and after agitations?

    Edit: sorry, just looked at the photo again, realised OP attached a positive, not a negative. Developer air bells would be white on a negative. Must read posts more carefully...
    Last edited by Rafal Lukawiecki; 07-08-2012 at 06:22 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: Silly mistake, apologies.
    Rafal Lukawiecki
    See rafal.net | Read rafal.net/articles

  8. #28

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    No...Rafal ...I didn't tap the tank...I now know I it's good practice even if it's not the cause of the spots that turned up on this set of negatives. Yes, Andrew...I think that's what happened....the label is awful...but now that I've read their spec sheet (which is much more detailed) I know it's six minutes. Actually I should have been suspicious given that my color kit is 6min or so but I thought I had remembered a short time last time...obviously I was wrong.

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