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Thread: Pushing Pyro

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    RPippin's Avatar
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    Pushing Pyro

    I apologize for the fact that this has surely been posted before and I haven't bothered to find it, but here goes. I would like to hear from anyone who has been push processing either PMK Pyro, WD2D+, or Rolo Pyro developer for sheet film. I'm using pyro developer for my 8X10 negs and currently shoot FP4 and HP5, but would consider switching to Delta 400 or Foma 400 if it's a better match for push processing. I would like to push 400 iso to 800 or more with these pyro developers. I use BTZS tubes for both 4X5 and 8X10 but could switch to tray development for my 8X10 stuff. I'll be contact printing with P/P and under exposing to get a higher iso with push processing. I've looked over the massive developing chart on Digitaltruth and can't find what I'm looking for. Anyone with experience with times and temps let me know. Thanks.

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    Bob Carnie's Avatar
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    I have pushed with some success PMK Pyro basically only about 20% on my normal time.- HP5- 4x5
    Also I have doubled the recommended formula and had success.- HP5 and Tri X- 4x5 and 8x10


    Though I prefer to push film in either HC110 , D76 or Microphen.

    Quote Originally Posted by RPippin View Post
    I apologize for the fact that this has surely been posted before and I haven't bothered to find it, but here goes. I would like to hear from anyone who has been push processing either PMK Pyro, WD2D+, or Rolo Pyro developer for sheet film. I'm using pyro developer for my 8X10 negs and currently shoot FP4 and HP5, but would consider switching to Delta 400 or Foma 400 if it's a better match for push processing. I would like to push 400 iso to 800 or more with these pyro developers. I use BTZS tubes for both 4X5 and 8X10 but could switch to tray development for my 8X10 stuff. I'll be contact printing with P/P and under exposing to get a higher iso with push processing. I've looked over the massive developing chart on Digitaltruth and can't find what I'm looking for. Anyone with experience with times and temps let me know. Thanks.

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    If you're set on Pyro, I'd probably choose PMK for pushing as it generally produces lower highlight contrast than Wimberley's formulas. You might want to try PMK+.

    Generally for pushing I'd recommend DDX, XTOL or D76.

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    wildbill's Avatar
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    fwiw, delta 400 isn't available in sheet sizes. foma 400 also isn't a true 400 asa film in most developers. TMY-2 on the other hand is a whole different animal. $$$$$$$.
    I soup it in pmk (rated @ 400asa) all the time, not pushed however. Kodak says shooting it at 800 needs no additional processing time though.
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

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    PMK tends to die so extra time might not make much difference. I did a 35mm 36exp film in 250mL of standard PMK and after immediately tried to do another identical film in the same used developer. The result was zero density, zero edge markings. This was in a compact inversion tank with not much air in it, agitation at around 2min intervals.

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    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Yes, PMK oxidizes very rapidly, and that's why it's recommended to agitate every 15s to shorten the development time. If you want to use it for pushing, it makes sense to use a two step process, where you change to fresh developer half way through the developing cycle.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

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    RPippin's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone. I checked and sure enough, no Delta 400 in sheet film, don't know what I was thinking. I'm going for about 14 or 15 minutes in PMK with under exposure by one stop with HP5 to see what I get. The film I have is a bit dated, so it's worth experimenting with.

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    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    I'll be interested to see your results. One stop underexposure shouldn't be too bad, unless you had lots of contrast in the scene you photographed. I'm curious to see if PMK has enough developing power to compensate for an extra stop.
    You really ought to expose two sheets, develop one for normal time, and another for the extended time, to see if there's actually any difference.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

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    wildbill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john_s View Post
    PMK tends to die so extra time might not make much difference. I did a 35mm 36exp film in 250mL of standard PMK and after immediately tried to do another identical film in the same used developer. The result was zero density, zero edge markings. This was in a compact inversion tank with not much air in it, agitation at around 2min intervals.
    Never re-use PMK. It should be mixed just before use too. It's so cheap anyway.

    Get a copy of "The Book of Pyro".
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

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    Quote Originally Posted by wildbill View Post
    Never re-use PMK. It should be mixed just before use too. It's so cheap anyway.

    Get a copy of "The Book of Pyro".
    I did it as an experiment. I understood the issues before I started. I was a bit surprised to get absolutely nothing, though.

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