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  1. #11
    VoidoidRamone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flotsam
    I don't think that it would adhere to the tin. It's hard enough to ferrotype F surface prints without getting dull spots and oystershelling.
    Oh, okay. I've never actually ferrotyped myself, but I vaguely know what the process is. Thanks.
    -Grant

  2. #12
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    A lot of people use RC Pearl because its the closest looking finish to Fiber Glossy. So if you like RC Pearl then Glossy FB will be pretty similar.
    Money is not the problem. The problem is, I don't have any.

  3. #13
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    I recently cleaned and fixed up the old plate print drier to try it (mine is a salvaged darkroom with old 60s/70s equipment lying everywhere). It imparted to my glossy MBFB an extreme gloss with what I can only describe as a crystaline pattern (perhaps the "oystershelling" that Flotsam described earlier) that was horrible. In the manual it said that you must roll out the prints on the plate or any part of the print that is not in contact when drying will come out splotchy. I rolled and rolled but couldn't use the drier without getting this pattern on my prints. I haven't completely given up on the drier however, since it describes a method of drying for a semi-matt finish with the prints facing away from the plate and blotter paper (anyone know what this stuff is? or anything about this process?) on top held down with the canvas.
    James

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Miller
    I have used a dryer with ferrotype some years ago and the finish is much more glossy then what I obtain with simply drying my prints face down on fiberglass drying screens. I find the glossy fiber paper gives what I want in depth in my prints. [...]
    Starting with
    this thread, I've been on a continuing search, unsuccessful so far, for the method for glazing FB paper. I've got Ilford MGIV and Azo at my disposal. Since the end of the above tribulations, I bought one of those double-sided convex dryers and a gallon of Pakosol.

    I've soaked prints in Pakosol to soften up the emulsion, put them really wet on the dryer, squeegeed them, I've scrubbed and scrubbed and polished the drum of the first dryer until it has a mirrored finish, I've tried increasing the pressure by putting a towel behind the print.

    The Ilford MGIV and Azo, Azo comes the closest to a smooth, flawless gloss. MGIV never fully gets there. Every print exhibits pitting.

    Donald and anyone else in this thread -- an suggestions to offer?
    I've all but decided that MGIV just won't glaze.[**] Anyone whose actually achieved a high gloss with contemporary FB paper, I'd love to hear everything they would be willing to say on the matter.

    -KwM-

    [**] I'm distinguishing between "glazing" and "ferrotyping" here. Ferrotyping being the binding of a print on a shiny surface such as a metal plate or a tile and drying at ambient temperature to achieve gloss, and glazing being the binding to a heated metal drum to achieve the same gloss but in less time. Obviously, if any corrections are needed in my use of these terms, I want to know that, too.

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