I was thinking how much influence for getting "vintage look" has subject itself?
For sure you will get more vintage look taking photos in some old village then from Tokyo car show .
The film speeds at that time were very slow by today's standards, and partly what contributes to what we refer to as "vintage" look. Fortunately one film/developer combination is still around from that time, and it's Efke 25 & Rodinal. I shoot Rollei Ortho 25 regularly, as well as the Efke. Both are excellent films.
Originally Posted by Two23
The Rolleipan 200 is very similar to Agfapan, which I always used to photograph WW2 battleships & submarines, because of delivering that same tonality. If that's the look you're going for, Rolleipan 200 would be the way to go. If you're searching for an earlier look, the Efke 25 & Efke 100 would be the way to go, processed in Rodinal.
Good luck, and congratulations on a fine camera.
If the lens doesn't read "ZEISS", then it just isn't.
its about the developer as much as it is the film --
why not process the film in something they would have used
in the 40s, like dilute dektol or a print plate/film / "universal" developer.
new developers are great, but old - school really brings out the look that they had back in the day...
have fun !
Originally Posted by Rolleijoe
I have a Leica IIIa, manufactured date 1935, coupled with the Summar 50/2 I regularly use Efke 25 with much success. It is a fun camera to use, I use it as much as my M2. Slow film is no problem for these old cameras, use it and enjoy it. Rolleijoe has the right idea, I also use Rodinal for development.
If you don't want to stand behind our troops, please feel free to stand in front of them.
How about Adox CHS 25 Art? Adox says these are the old emulsions. As said above, using the right developer contributes to the 'look'. D-76 has been around about as long as anything.
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The classic look that the OP wishes to emulate was determined by the following factors.
1. The films of the time were orthochromatic. This altered the tones of the subject. Foliage was lighter and shadows were more open. The sky was usually featureless with no clouds. Reds were darker which changed skin tones.
2. Film emulsions were thicker than modern film and had coarse grain. This caused dispersion and softening of the image.
3. Films were slow which forced the use of more static subjects.
4. Lenses made before WWII were uncoated and subject to flare.
5. Subject determined factors; the models clothes, makeup, hair style, etc. Also older technology -- large radios in the home and no TV, older style cars, etc.
6. In an age without the strobe light more attention was made to natural lighting assisted by flash bulbs or flash powder.
As can be seen from the incomplete list above, film was only part of the look of old photos.
A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.
~Antoine de Saint-Exupery
If you want a vintage look you need more than vintage lenses. Start with a film closer to what was available. Until about 1950 the fastest film generally available was Super XX with a Weston rating of 100. The most commonly available 35mm film during WWII was DuPont Superior #2 with a Weston Speed of 50. Efke 25 comes close to these in structure and speed. The curve will be more like DuPont because Super XX had a straight line curve which is not really approached today.
Vintage developers are another necessity - D-23,D-76, etc.
Papers are another story since cadmium and other chemicals common in the old papers are not allowed today. Best alternative would be hand coated POP.
[FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]