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  1. #11
    brian steinberger's Avatar
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    I just thought of another option. Complete indirect sulphide toning. Again, more density loss in the shadows on MGWT as opposed to MGIV but still worth a shot. As Jeffrey says though, it would be much easier to reprint rather than doing toning gymnastics to save the prints.

  2. #12
    Thomas Bertilsson's Avatar
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    Bleach the print back fully, and redevelop it in a developer that is well spent, like the Bromophen you used prior to mixing fresh.
    "Often moments come looking for us". - Robert Frank

    "Make good art!" - Neil Gaiman

    "...the heart and mind are the true lens of the camera". - Yousuf Karsh

  3. #13
    Andre Noble's Avatar
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    *Solved*

    With Brian's suggestion to full sepia tone and Tim Rudman's Book on Toning on hand, I went with the Sepia tone route:

    I used a 10ml of the Part C toner Activator to 1 Liter of Toner, Solution B of the Fotospeed ST20 Variable Sepia Toner kit. (One can use anywhere from 10ml to 100ml activator per 1000ml of working strength toner)

    So this dilute amount of Part C activator was key to lightening the prints.

    I had to keep adding a tiny amount of activator to the toner as activity dropped significantly after about ten 8x10's through one liter of toner.

    Through this accident, I discovered a new tool "Fotospeed Odorless Variable Sepia Toner" that I probably would not have discovered otherwise.

    The weird thing is that the toner was odorless(?). I took no chances (on chemical fogging) and processed away from my unexposed film and paper.
    Andre Noble, Beverly Hills California http://andrenoble.com/

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