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  1. #1

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    (Original) Orwo films - recommended developers or HC110

    Hi folks,

    I have some expired Orwo films I am going to start working my way through, expired anywhere between 1966(!) and 1993.

    I've got some Calbe R09 and Orwo/Calbe A49, and Kodak HC110. Question is - what to use to develop these films?

    The Orwo/Calbe chemistry is the recommended developer, and developing times are available. HC110 slightly harder to find times for but from Googling, I have (I think) an idea where to to start.

    HC110 seems (also from Googling) to be the developer of choice in order to minimise fog - so looking for opinions on whether I should use this, or develop in 1+40 R09 - or 1+100 stand development.

    Going to develop a 1993-expired film tomorrow - opinions welcome!

  2. #2
    limnidytis's Avatar
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    I've developed some very expired ORWO NP55 in HC110 - the film I have is fogged along one side (maybe heat or light exposure along the edge of he spool) and with HC110 the uneven fog was very evident -
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/52637134@N03/6954219819/
    Stand development in Rodinal was pretty bad too. I tried caffenol and it was actually better -
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/52637134@N03/6987680426/
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/52637134@N03/7587445062/

    Johnny

  3. #3

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    Thanks Johnny. Hmmmm, believe it or not I don't have any coffee around as I hate the stuff! Leaving aside the fog, I like the tones in the HC110 negative, although the caffenol look very nice too.

    I think I'll have a go with HC110. Film is unknown storage but was in it's airtight inner cover, so hope it won't be too bad...

  4. #4

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    So, an update in case anyone was vaguely interested...

    ... I successfully developed the film, which was a 120 size. Presoak of 5 mins, then I used 2.75ml of HC110 in 600ml of distilled water (about 1:220ish) for 1 hour, 5 inversions at the beginning, and three inversions at 30 minutes. Water stop bath followed by fixing in Calbe A300.

    Temperature was about 23 degrees C (ambient temperature).

    Negatives look good, no fog.

  5. #5

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    Just to add that I've developed quite a bit of ORWO NP20 and NP22 recently, all 35mm and dated around late 1980's; maybe I've just been lucky, but none of mine has been fogged at all. Nearly all has been developed in Rodinal 1:200, stand development for 60 mins, and I've been very pleased with the results. Grain is slightly higher than with my standard film (APX 100, developed in same way), but sharpness and tonality are very good. I have also occasionally used Rodinal Special which, as expected, gives lower grain but at the expense of some tonality. I really like the ORWO B&W films of this vintage!



 

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