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  1. #1
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    Developer recommendation

    Shoot some 17 rolls of 35mm film(APX, PanF+ and Fomapan) at box speed and I have Rodinal.

    Initial thoughts were to develop with Rodinal 1+100 stand, since I am not really sure about the exposure inside the cathedral.

    I am little too scared about the above scheme that it may destroy negs because of bromide drag.

    So, I am thinking about Diafine or Xtol

    My question is, What do I get from Diafine that I don't get from Xtol?

    Negs are intended to print on MCP 310.
    Last edited by baachitraka; 08-04-2012 at 12:15 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
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  2. #2

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    Can I suggest you have a look at www.digitaltruth.com it has just about every developer/film combination you can think of and then some. Different dilutions and different speed compensations are all there and even some different temperatures too. A great mine of information and what's more it is free.

  3. #3

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    If you exposed the film at box speed you shouldn't have any problems using Xtol. This developer will give you finer grain and a small increase in shadow detail which will be helpful with interior shots.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  4. #4
    MDR
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    Rodinal stand is fine APX and Pan F look great in Rodinal, Fompan will probably be better in Xtol.

    Dominik

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDR View Post
    Rodinal stand is fine APX and Pan F look great in Rodinal, Fompan will probably be better in Xtol.

    Dominik
    There was a time when development required some form of agitation.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by cliveh View Post
    There was a time when development required some form of agitation.
    Still does! Those that advocate stand development seem to ignore its many downsides. There was a thread about a week ago that listed about 10 problems with this method. It should never be considered a general purpose development method. It should only be used for contrast reduction. Any book on the zone system will state that. For interior shots of a dimly lit church you do not want decreased contrast.
    Last edited by Gerald C Koch; 08-04-2012 at 03:29 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  7. #7
    cliveh's Avatar
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    This is like a lot of techniques. For instance if you develop film at higher temperature you can develop it in a shorter time. But it does not mean you can extrapolate this technique to develop it for a few seconds near boiling point, if you get my drift. Still bath/stand development can be useful for preserving fine line detail in such things as the reproduction of fine line drawings in the later part of development, but not for the whole development process.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  8. #8
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    No Stand. I just developed a roll which was shot at the end of the trip and noticed a kind of pattern close to sprocket holes which I believe is bromide drag(e.g., sky above the bridge)

    500ml + 5ml, no agitation from beginning to end. Lucky that I have this pattern at the end of the roll, say, 36-26 which I just shot to finish it.

    I won't do stand again, rather the trusted 1+50 for 15 mins and agitation at every 5th minute for 10 sec.
    Last edited by baachitraka; 08-04-2012 at 04:37 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Holga 120GFN: Amazingly simple yet it produces outstanding negatives to print.



 

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