try using a developer that has glycin in it.
or one made of coffee, vit c, and washing soda
Last edited by jnanian; 08-13-2012 at 08:08 PM. Click to view previous post history.
I've gotten faint images on the leader of a film once. I loaded the camera in relatively dim light, and there was a faint but visible image amongst the black fog in the zeroth frame (partly on the fogged leader). The film was Rollei Retro 80S. I was quite surprised when I saw it.
It's relatively easy to control water temperature, fridge, ice, so I don't understand the problem. Develop at 68f/20C or nearest you can get.
Originally Posted by MFstooges
“The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”
Don't be afraid to use temperatures well above 20 Celcius if you gain an advantage.
A few weeks ago I finished a darkroom session of 38 sheets of Fomapan400 in the 4x5 format. To speed things up my Xtol developer (replenished stock) was heated to 35 Celcius (95 Farenheit) to give a time of 3minutes 25 seconds per negative. I used a small developing tray floating in a bigger tray of hot water. All the negatives are fine. If I had stuck to 20 Celcius my developing time would have been 10 minutes 20 seconds and I would not have finished the job until the next day. And I would have been bored out of my skull. Standing in the dark for two days rocking a tray is not a creative moment in photography.
Modern black and white films can take developer temperatures up to 100 Farenheit (sometimes beyond) without harm BUT:
Agitation must be smooth, quick, and continuous to avoid uneven development because of the short times.
Temperatures and times have to be accurate because the margin of error gets small.
All processing solutions should have similar temperatures to avoid thermal shock to the film and the possibility of reticulation.
Film emulsion softens so the only things allowed to touch it are liquids and air; no fingers, no squeegees, no chamois.
Photography, the word itself, invented and defined by its author Sir John.F.W.Herschel, 14 March 1839 at the Royal Society, Somerset House, London. Quote "...Photography or the application of the Chemical rays of light to the purpose of pictorial representation,..". unquote.
not sure about that
Originally Posted by Maris
i have processed film in a rotary processor
all tmy and it was 80F
and all the emulsion went off the backing and down the drain ... 6 rolls
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One thing I miss about Michigan is consistent water temperature. My water there came out of Lake Michigan and was transported to me in mains at least five feet below ground, so cold tap water was never more than about 20c, right where we want it. Here in Virginia I'm on a small community system with the mains not so deeply buried, and I haven't seen "cold" water less than 23c since summer started.
75 F/ 24C is one of the recommend temperatures in many of the manufacturers' data sheets I read - e.g. for T-Max developer. I would use that as my target temperature, and use ice and other sources of cooling for that.
“Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”
Ansel Adams, from the introduction to The Negative - The New Ansel Adams Photography Series / Book 2
You can process your film in chemistry above 20° C, but you'll probably have more grain and the emulsion is going to be softer and easier to scratch when you hang it up to dry. Keep the chemicals and wash at the same temperature. You can cause reticulation if you go from warm chemistry into a cold wash.
When I lived in Miami, the tap water was 86°F (30°C). I like to process at 68°F (20°C), so I would mix my developer and then put the entire measuring beaker in the fridge for a while, sometimes in the freezer for 5 minutes for a quick chill. I would check on it after a few minutes and stir it to even out the temperature. When it would get to the temp. I liked, I would take it out and use it. Never had a problem and never needed to use the ice maker.
I'm not sure I understand the OP's reluctance to use the refrigerator or freezer, unless he's got an old or malfunctioning one that cannot re-cool very quickly every time the door is opened, or similar. Barring that, I'd echo the concerns above about short developing times and say it's worth cooling the water to avoid that. Things like the 15 seconds it takes to pour the developer out of the tank are noise in a 10- or 12-minute development process, but material to the outcome of a 3-minute one.
Here in North Carolina, my water is often about 26 C this summer. I usually fill a large pitcher with it, mix in ice to reach 20 C or even 18 C, and use that pitcher of water for everything (mixing developer, as stop, and for washing). The ice-maker in my freezer usually makes more ice than I would use up in drinks, so old ice collects in there and gets an off taste to it over time. Those are the cubes that go into this process! Meantime I'm reserving the freshest, best tasting ice to go into iced coffee or mint juleps.