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  1. #1

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    rodinal vs Tetenal neofin blue

    I am used to Rodinal for slow to medium speed films. I like the shelf life, sharpness and the results. But I would like to give Tetenal Neofin Blue a try now that its available on Freestyle, although its on the pricey side for those one shot bottles.

    So here is a question for those who have used both Rodinal and Neofine Blue: what can I expect in differences between the two developers on films like Ilford Pan F+ 50, Fuji Acros 100 and Agfa APX 100?

  2. #2
    Tony-S's Avatar
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    I'm gearing up to test NB but I have become quite enamored with Pyrocat HD and Delta 100. I'm still in the early stages of testing it and hope to do so with Acros, Pan F+ and Delta 400 in the coming weeks. Same for NB.

  3. #3
    tony lockerbie's Avatar
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    I have tried both, mainly with Pan F+, and the sharpness is very similar. I seemed to get more contrast from the Neofin than the Rodinal which I use at 1:50. Maybe diluting the Neofin would drop the contrast, haven't tested that though.
    I have decided to stick with Rodinal for the reasons that you listed,and now that Rodinal is readily available again I will stay with that.
    Neofin Blue is a great developer but the high price works against it, a bit hard to get here too. If you were using just the occasional film the one shot bottles might make more sense.
    I have never tried Neofin Blue with Delta 100, but imagine that it would work well. Back in the early seventies I used to use Neofin blue with the slow Adox films and it was magic.

  4. #4
    Rolfe Tessem's Avatar
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    The Beutler (Neofin Blue) from the Formulary is only $9.25 for the amount needed to make one liter of each the A and B solution. At the normal 1:1:10 dilution, that develops one hell of a lot of film. If that is what is characterized as expensive, maybe your calculations are off :-).

    I've recently tested APX100 in both Rodinal (the classic combination) and Beutler and the Beutler seems to me to have a small edge.

  5. #5
    Richard Sintchak (rich815)'s Avatar
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    This is so subjective I don't really understand the point, you're going to actually test three different films with two different developers. Are you going to test in exacting conditions so you can realize the exact differences? I recommend instead just go ahead and shoot a couple a dozen of each one and use both developers and see what you like. Both are great. Other opinions of which are "better" or which has an "edge" means what to you exactly? Just don't drop the prints before you get a chance to label them.
    Last edited by Richard Sintchak (rich815); 09-06-2012 at 06:58 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    -----------------------

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  6. #6
    Rolfe Tessem's Avatar
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    To my eye, with APX100, the Beutler seems to give a somewhat longer midtone gray scale than Rodinal does. It benefits from the edge effects and thus, even though the grain is about the same, the Beutler appears to be a bit sharper.

    At the recommended times, the Beutler also has a bit more snappy contrast (this, of course, could be adjusted to be equal with more testing).

    They are both really good developers for the slower, traditional emulsions and in general are more similar than they are different.

    Oh yes, they are both really cheap! :-)

  7. #7

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    Maybe diluting the Neofin would drop the contrast, haven't tested that though.
    The two developers Neofin Blue and the Beutler formula are already extremely dilute. Both work on the principle of the exhaustion of the developer. If you dilute them more than is recommended there may not be enough developing agent(s) left to properly develop a film.

    Photographer's Formulary insists on saying that Neofin Blue and the Beutler formula are the same. They are not and the formulas are quite different. Look up the MSDS for Tetenal Neofin Blue. This why I don't like companies like PF that play fast and loose with the truth.

    The Beutler developer is probably the cheapest developer to use. It consists of 3 ingredients and is very easy to make. I used it when I was a starving "graduate" student when money was very tight. Always liked the results with a slow film ISO ~40.
    Last edited by Gerald C Koch; 09-06-2012 at 09:54 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  8. #8
    Rolfe Tessem's Avatar
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    Gerald,

    I doubt that the Formulary is deliberately misleading anybody. More likely, they are simply reflecting what their understanding is -- that Beutler and Neofin Blue are the same thing.

    I doubt that people are going to the Formulary to obtain Neofin Blue -- most likely they are going there to get Beutler, which has a long and storied history.

    I am a johnny come lately to it -- I only recently tried it when I packed in a hundred rolls of APX100 from Europe.

    Very impressed and very cheap!

  9. #9

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    I doubt that the Formulary is deliberately misleading anybody. More likely, they are simply reflecting what their understanding is -- that Beutler and Neofin Blue are the same thing.
    That is not the understanding that one gets from their catalog entry. They don't even try the fiction that the formulas are similar. Forgive me but I think companies are entitled to protection of their tradenames. AFAIK the two developers have never had the same formula. I do agree that some people may erroneously equate them. Perhaps this is an opportunity for PF to educate its customers.
    A rock pile ceases to be a rock pile the moment a single man contemplates it, bearing within him the image of a cathedral.

    ~Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  10. #10
    georg16nik's Avatar
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    Tetenal Neofin Blue keeps box speed and gives extra clarity to Ilford Pan +.
    Rodinal (or Kodak HC-110) is great until You get into Tetenal Neofin Blue or Ultrafin Liquid.

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