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  1. #11
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    Fomapan 100(135) came good with Rodinal 1+50(300ml + 6ml) but the agitation was according to the article.

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum216/...-negative.html

    15 mins: Three inversions at the beginning and three at every 5th minute @20° C and this prints very well on MCP 310 with Focomat Ic.

    Note: I shot mostly during day time in Italy with Yellow-Green filter and my incident reading was EV 14 @ISO 50(filter compensation).

    Unfortunaltey, I do not own any scanner yet to show some samples.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Agfa Isolette III: Amazingly simple, yet it produces outstanding negatives.
    Holga 120GFN: EV 11 or EV 12.

  2. #12
    Bruce Robbins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by baachitraka View Post
    Fomapan 100(135) came good with Rodinal 1+50(300ml + 6ml) but the agitation was according to the article.

    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum216/...-negative.html
    How do your negatives look? I've found that Fomapan 100 and Rodinal 1+50 gives me negatives that I just know will print well.
    The Online Darkroom
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  3. #13
    baachitraka's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Robbins View Post
    How do your negatives look? I've found that Fomapan 100 and Rodinal 1+50 gives me negatives that I just know will print well.
    If I compare with APX 100, Fomapan 100 is slightly contrasty when developed for 15 mins and I personally like it for its grain. My printing size is up to 8x10 inches.
    OM-1n: Do I need to own a Leica?
    Rolleicord Va: Humble.
    Agfa Isolette III: Amazingly simple, yet it produces outstanding negatives.
    Holga 120GFN: EV 11 or EV 12.

  4. #14

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    about 70-75% shorter developer times
    Is it just me or does that sound like you are suggesting developing times that are 70-75% of normal. Such as, instead of 10 minutes use 2.5 to 3 minutes.

  5. #15
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    I think he meant 25-30% shorter
    Good catch there mw, it took me a reread for it to sink in.

  6. #16

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    I think he meant 25-30% shorter
    I am sure that is what Ian meant.
    Just wanted to make there was no confusion.

  7. #17

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    Agree completely with Ian. The film isn't contrasty, it just needs adequate exposure and less development than many other films.

  8. #18

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    Ian is correct. I shoot Fomapan 100 at 50. I develop in Rodinal 1+50 for 8 mins and I get good negatives from it. They have good shadow detail and good highlight detail.
    Bachelor of Fine Arts and Bachelor of Arts: Journalism - University of Arkansas 2014

    Canon A-1, Canon AE-1, Canon Canonet GIII 17, Argus 21, Rolleicord Va, Mamiya RB67, Voigtländer Bessa

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  9. #19

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    Instead of starting a new thread i`m going to tag a few questions onto this one.
    I am about to try some foma 100, so this thread has been helpful.
    What is the 200 like? I see that some strongly suggest shooting this film at 50.Does the same apply for the 200, half the speed also?
    Also I have been using microphen exclusively, any reason why I should change if I decide to use a lot of this film, i am considering buying bulk rolls if all goes well.
    Which leads to next question.
    Re - loadable cassettes, how many times can i expect to use each cassette before light leaks become a problem.
    I have seen some new stock kood plastic cassettes. Some say plastic, some say metal, but surely new ones would be the best option.
    regards

  10. #20
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Yes, the 200 works best (in my experience) at about 100 or 125.

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