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  1. #1

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    Best tamming of Fomapan 100?

    Hi all, I am looking into getting nice landscape shots developed from Fomapan 100.
    I got access to both R09(rodinal) and D76.

    Any suggestions on how to handle the great contrast of Fomapan 100? I am trying to achieve tonalities similar to Ansel Adams photo from: Yosemite: Jeffrey Pine, Sentinel Dome 1940 or The Portfolios of Ansel: Portfolio IV Plate 5, "Cathedral Peak and Lake".

    I am looking for nice blacks, clear highlights and none creamy grays ( see above reference). I know that darkroom work comes into play, so I want to develop with a tequnique that would allow me to achieve that look with Fomapan 100. TY!

  2. #2

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    Did you shoot with zones in mind or simply mid-grey and pray?

  3. #3
    Bruce Robbins's Avatar
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    Hi,

    I use Fomapan 100 in my Rollei SL66E and develop in Rodinal at 1+50 for results that I really like. Agitation is for twenty seconds initially and then ten seconds every minute. The relatively high dilution helps to prevent highlight build-up and sharpness is great. Mid tones are punchy and the overall contrast looks just right. I highly recommend it. I've got pics using this combination at my website, URL below.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The Online Darkroom
    www.theonlinedarkroom.com

  4. #4

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    NB23
    Did you shoot with zones in mind or simply mid-grey and pray?
    I use spot metering with a dslr and "the zone system" (still no expert, but try to preserve detail by placing the zones accordingly). I do like the rich blacks on some small shadow parts that usually tend to fall into the gray areas. Since they are shadows of other sections, i cant just dodge them out :/

    Bruce Robbins
    Hi,
    I use Fomapan 100 in my Rollei SL66E...
    Thanks! Isn't rodinal more grainy? Or is the low dilution and agitation what keeps it low?
    "The Medium is the Message"

  5. #5
    gorbas's Avatar
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    Very nice work Bruce!!

  6. #6

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    tonalities similar to ansel adams'? wow, you don't want much.

    Sit urself down with a zone system book and learn about expanding and contracting zone scales, then figure out what the particular scene you are shooting needs in way of exposure AND processing (over and under one or two on either exposure or processing or both) and fire away .... you will needed to dedicate a film back to each combination -- some folks narrow it down to film shot at par, film shot one stop over and one for film shot at stop under and then process them accordingly.

    or something. Adams had a whole system and used individual film holders marked for how they were exposed and how they were to be processed depending on the scene.

    Tell you the truth, when I shoot Ilford XP2 at asa 400 in my Rolleiflex, or Leica, it comes darn close. Try that and save yourself a lot of homework.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by summicron1 View Post
    tonalities similar to ansel adams'? wow, you don't want much.
    Hehe I knew someone would say that! I dont want his style or quality, I just liked 1-2 specific examples of his. He had lots of variations depending on the visualization he had of the scene.

    ATM i use delta 400 and HP5 but its just tooo contrasty, while other retro style films are just grays with no blacks or whites.

    I am looking for defined blacks on shadows like the ones on those specific 2 examples(they were not burned in because they were detail shadows).
    Maybe I am missing some Zone+development combination.
    "The Medium is the Message"

  8. #8

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    i usually tame my film with coffee

    YMMV

  9. #9
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    I've used quite a lot of Fompan 100 & 200, both films do need taming in terms of contrast, I did some Zone system tests when I began using them and found that half the box speed and about 70-75% shorter developer times compared to ther films gave me realy nice negatives, very easy to print, good tonality etc.

    Ian

  10. #10
    piu58's Avatar
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    > half the box speed and about 70-75% shorter developer times

    That is the key. I used the film for some time and came to similar results. The film tends to build up highlights qickly.
    ---
    Uwe Pilz

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