Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 70,277   Posts: 1,534,812   Online: 844
      
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1
    Silverpixels5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    594
    Images
    15

    Negative Intenisfication

    I seem to have a bit of a problem with a roll of FP4+ that I (under)developed. I developed it in d-76H 1:1 with a little KBr thrown in. Well it seems I had a bit too much KBr b/c my developement time was way off by the looks of my negatives. They are extremely thin, underdeveloped, or whatever term you'd like to use. The negatives were properly exposed, but I'm not sure if that matters now that i've developed and fixed them. Anyway, I was going through 'The Darkroom Cookbook' and was thinking of using the Kodak In-5 Silver Intensifier formula. Does anyone have experience with this intensifier? Is there another one that I could use that will work just as well? The negatives are pretty faint, but I can see an image in each frame (35mm). Can I save this roll, or am I just s.o.l? Thanks!
    RL Foley

  2. #2
    lee
    lee is offline
    lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Fort Worth TX
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    2,913
    Images
    8
    Ron,
    are they something you cannot shoot again? If not, throw them away and redo the shoot. If you just want to play then go ahead but I don't think you will gain much more than a stop. good luck

    lee\c
    Last edited by lee; 12-14-2004 at 08:01 AM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: spelling

  3. #3
    Silverpixels5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    594
    Images
    15
    Well I can and can't if that makes any sense. They weren't terribly important pictures (just some snapshots of me and my dogs, and my girlfriend and my dogs). So I can always shoot more, but of course I want those, since I guess they capture that particular moment. A full stop or so may give me something thats printable. Anything less than a stop probably won't do much good.
    RL Foley

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    726
    Try printing at hard constrast.

    David.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    653
    I've used the silver intensifier, and it pulled up the shadows much better than Selenium. But it's expensive, slow, and very dirty working. I'd definitely try it out on some trash film first to get a feel for it. Also make VERY sure there are no contaminants on the film or the intensification will be uneven and you can even end up with brown splotchiness. In fact, wash the living crap out of any film you want to try it on before using it.

    All that said, the stuff really works.

  6. #6
    lee
    lee is offline
    lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Fort Worth TX
    Shooter
    8x10 Format
    Posts
    2,913
    Images
    8
    Ron,

    The selenium dilution is about 1+4 for as long as it works. Poco gives good info also. Good Luck.

    lee\c

  7. #7
    clay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Asheville, North Carolina
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,118
    Images
    8
    Ron:

    I tried out that formula as an experiment on a thin negative recently, and it does work fairly well. The only downside is that it involves 4 separate solutions, silver nitrate (wear gloves!) and there is also a timing element involved since it supposedly starts going 'off' once it is mixed. Another thought is to bleach/redevelop in a staining non-sulfite developer and hope that you get some boost from the stain density.

    Clay

  8. #8
    Silverpixels5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    594
    Images
    15
    Is it possible to bleach and re-develop in a staining developer, and if that isn't sufficient, then run it through a negative intensifier?
    RL Foley

  9. #9
    clay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Asheville, North Carolina
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,118
    Images
    8
    I can't say from direct experience, but i believe that the stain is affecting only the gelatin and the silver intensifier actually deposits some additional silver on the negative (i.e. physical development like you do in wet plate processes) so my guess is that yes, you could do both. But I would definitely experiment on a loser shot from the roll first and make sure your process variables are tight.

  10. #10
    Robert Hall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Lehi, Utah
    Shooter
    ULarge Format
    Posts
    2,040
    Images
    28
    I would give that a try. Do the bleach and re-develop a few times. Make sure you rinse the bleach completely each time. (I use a potassium dichromate then redevelop in PMK.)

    After that is done, if you still don't have enough you may try (this is a one shot deal) to bleach and redevelop in a sulfide (sepia) toner. They don't look much more dense but they certainly print that way. I seem to remember reading about this in Photo Techniques quite a while ago.

    But remember that Sepia or selenium are the final chances. Once you've done it, it's done.
    Robert Hall
    www.RobertHall.com
    www.RobertHall.com/mobile
    Apug Portfolio
    Facebook Profile


    Technology is not a panacea. It alone will not move your art forward. Only through developing your own aesthetic - free from the tools that create it - can you find new dimension to your work.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin