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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by cliveh View Post
    There are loads of things you can do with this paper. The first that comes to mind is lumen printing. Check out the alternative photography site. You could also fog them, develop to black and draw on the emulsion and then reverse them, or how about using them as photogram and pinhole material.
    Hey Cliveh
    I have a lot of potential use of the paper from the post here. I will try the lumen way first.
    I toned a few this morning and they turned out great. It made my day with this. So much paper, so little time to try everything. I am ordering some lith dev. and since I have so many different brands and types, it will be fun using it.
    Things have changed so much since I last had a darkroom that it is scarry.
    I went to a local art and framing company the other day to get some mounting and framing things. I asked the lady if they had any dry mount tissue. She looked at me like I came over on the ark. After a little search in her stock book, she said they did have some. It was 5 ft. wide x ????. I bought about 10ft and paid her .60 a ft. She said they use foam board now. I guess my dry mount press is all most antique now.

    Anyway, I'll keep playing with the RC and see what comes of it.

    Thanks
    Richard

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichardH View Post
    I guess my dry mount press is all most antique now.

    Anyway, I'll keep playing with the RC and see what comes of it.

    Thanks
    Richard
    Your dry mount press maybe antique, but if you try lumen printing, may I suggest that if using flowers, you use this press to squeeze the flowers onto the unexposed paper in a black bag between two sheets of board prior to exposure. If you do this in the spring as flowers blossom, the flower juice will run into the paper giving you some beautiful coloured effects.

    “The contemplation of things as they are, without error or confusion, without substitution or imposture, is in itself a nobler thing than a whole harvest of invention”

    Francis Bacon

  3. #13

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    When you try the Ilford paper the test is easy. Just apply filters 1-5 to the print. You will either find that each print shows a different contrast in which case Hurrah or you will find that the prints will not respond fully to each successive grade and will print alike and run out of contrast.

    If the paper responds as it should between grades 2-3.5 then unless the negs haven't been exposed or developed as they should be and will need rescuing at say grade 4-5 but won't print as they should at these grades then you know that there is some loss of contrast.

    Even grey prints i.e. not showing full blacks or bright whites can look OK sometimes in my opinion.


    pentaxuser

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by pentaxuser View Post
    When you try the Ilford paper the test is easy. Just apply filters 1-5 to the print. You will either find that each print shows a different contrast in which case Hurrah or you will find that the prints will not respond fully to each successive grade and will print alike and run out of contrast.

    If the paper responds as it should between grades 2-3.5 then unless the negs haven't been exposed or developed as they should be and will need rescuing at say grade 4-5 but won't print as they should at these grades then you know that there is some loss of contrast.

    Even grey prints i.e. not showing full blacks or bright whites can look OK sometimes in my opinion.


    pentaxuser
    Hey again
    I'll try that with all the VC papers using this method. Very good project to do. I print with a color head but I do have a bunch of different brands of filters that can be used. Or maybe just dial in the magenta and make small test pieces.

    Thanks
    Richard

  5. #15
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    > If the fogging isn't too bad, a bit of benzotriazole , in the developer, can help.

    Or, much easier, process it in heavily used developer. It contains lots of bromide which reduces fog. If there remains some light fog in the highlights weak Farmer's reducer may help.
    ---
    Uwe Pilz

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by piu58 View Post
    > If the fogging isn't too bad, a bit of benzotriazole , in the developer, can help.

    Or, much easier, process it in heavily used developer. It contains lots of bromide which reduces fog. If there remains some light fog in the highlights weak Farmer's reducer may help.
    Thanks for the info

    In the next couple of days, I am going to go back through the boxes and check again for fog and at the same time also check for contrast change. Someone in a recent post about this told how I could check for change in contrast.
    It will be time well spent since I have so many boxes and packs. I think at the time I check each one, I'll tape the piece to the box so I know exactly what the paper looks like as far as texture and weight.

    Thanks
    Richard

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